The beaches of Aquitaine

Funny how even the most spectacular scenery can become redundant, and so it was on our third day of cycling through the Medoc and Dordogne Valleys that we tired of the verdant rolling hills of vineyards and turned our attention to the French region of Aquitaine.

Aquitaine region

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

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That is truly one great advantage of a self-made cycle itinerary! You can change direction on a whim! We headed northwest towards Blaye. We simply used the village as a stopover before we boarded the short ferry ride across to Lamarque but nonetheless enjoyed a lovely dinner at a local restaurant housed in a centuries-old building which showcased fabulous local art. The manager was a recent transfer from the Canary Islands and regaled us with stories of life in France and the limitations of its rigid workplace realities and antiquated real estate laws. For instance he was shocked to learn that although his lease required him to give his landlord 30 days’ notice of vacancy, his landlord must give him at least 3 years notice to vacate!! Talk about tenants’ rights!

Once we crossed the Gironde River and entered the Aquitaine region we slowly saw the terrain change to the Maritime Pine Forests of Landes. Terrific flat terrain with over 300kms of cycle paths called the Velodyssee runs along the coast from the Landes region right through to Cap Ferret. The pine forests were actually planted by men during the reign of Napoleon III in an effort to reclaim the then swampland of the region.

250kms of ocean coastline results in Europe’s largest fine sand beach! I had no idea that beaches of this calibre were here in France. Popular with the windsurfers and surfers of Europe, the coastline is home to many small seaside villages and harbours. We treated ourselves to a two day stopover in Lacanau de Ocean. With a population of 4500 that swells to 80,000 during the summer season, Lacanau de Ocean is the epitome of a party surf town. Lots of accommodations ranging from cottage-style camping to luxury boutique hotels are available. 15kms of golden sand beaches made for fabulous trekking although my North American sensibilities were challenged as the expected top-less beaches then gave way to the full nudist spectacle that waited further down the line! A lovely promenade and beach-side restaurants were perfect venues for watching the local surf experts! End of season sales were prominent and we delighted in buying some fabulous beachwear and sandals.

Photo: Contributed

It was time to hop back on the bikes and continue our trip south to The Bay of Arcachon. A long time oyster harvesting area, Arcachon has become the playground for the rich and famous in recent years. Much larger and more sophisticated than the laidback “surfer dude” ambiance of Lacanau, Arcachon vibrated with a cosmopolitan flair and savoir faire. The gorgeous villas (mansions) of the “Winter” district were a pleasure to wander thru and the meticulously maintained beaches of the “Summer” district were so reminiscent of the South Beach area in Miami. The glorious promenade was a fabulous backdrop to all the “beautiful people” and the elegant restaurants and resorts which lined its route. Sadly we had but a day here before we boarded the train back to Bordeaux.

A note to future cyclists ….. Most of the trains in France allow bicycles free of charge! And so ended our tour of France. Great food and wine, wonderful sites and scenery and best of all ….. Laughter to last the ages!!

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.