Beyond Bordeaux: Saint Emilion

After two indulgent days of shopping, touring and eating in Bordeaux we set off on our bikes to our first destination. The medieval town of Saint Emilion, home to both legend and world renown wines.

France is criss-crossed by a number of safe and paved surface cycle paths or “Cyclopiste”. Throughout our journey into the Medoc Valley wine growing region we were able to meander through the scenic hills and vineyards with little to no concern for moving vehicles. Our worst hazards were jay-walking pedestrians or local wildlife! Every bend in the road revealed an incredible tapestry of Romanesque churches or ruins, extravagant chateaus and beautifully terraced hills showcasing the fruit for which the region is known.

Touring Saint Emilion

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

Photo: Contributed

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The distance between Bordeaux and Saint Emilion is 40 kms by car - strangely it was 72 kms by bike! Getting lost was truly the best part of the travels. Myself and my girlfriend’s high school French along with hilarious charades and pantomimes made for many funny encounters with some of the local farmers. The genuine friendliness and concern of these people was a pleasant surprise after the somewhat brusque attitude we are so familiar with from the French.

Saint Emilion is a historical and scenic village perched high above the valley on the apex of a large limestone formation. Signified both for its wines and its UNESCO classification, Saint Emilion is a favoured stop for the river cruise tourist as well as high-end cycle and motor coach tours.

The legend is that Emilion was a pious young man who began a pilgrimage to dedicate his life to God. His journey led him to a forest where, so taken with the serenity of the area he dug out a cave and lived there in service to his fellow man. Upon his death in 767, the hermit had performed so many miracles and good deeds on behalf of his fellow man that it was decided to name the place after him and it became known as Saint Emilion.

The historical centre of the village is located up a torturously steep (for a cyclist at the end of a long day) hill and is predominated by the iconic 13th century Tower du Roy as well as the monolithic church which houses the monk’s cave. Steep cobblestone roads, tight little houses, shops of every variety as well as numerous wine cellars are your first impression. During a local tasting at one of the cellars we learned that the Medoc Valley vineyards grow primarily Cabernet Sauvignon but that Saint Emilion wineries grow Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Some of the most expensive wines in the world originate from this area therefore sadly our budget didn’t allow for any local purchases. However, there is no “bad” bottle of wine in this region and luckily with the help of a local wine vendor we were able to partake of a very lovely bottle from the nearby Medoc Valley for our dinner that evening.

During our travels we stumbled across the word “Auberge” which means Inn in French. This style of accommodation is located throughout France and we found them to be centrally located as well as unique in their ambiance. Most are housed in historical buildings or monuments and are well-priced as well as family run. Truly a culturally enriching way to experience the French way of life. Our home for the night in Saint Emilion was The Auberge de la Commenderie.

Truly a place untouched by time, Saint Emilion was a treat to both the senses and the soul. A spectacular lightning and thunderstorm finished off our magical night and washed the way clear for our next adventure!

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.