Herringbone not just a fabric pattern but a cross country ski technique

Cross-country ski climbing

Photo: J.P. Quire

There are many variables in waxable skis: the temperature range of the wax (which should match the snow temperature), the type of wax (recreational versus racing), the length of the grip zone and its location.

To complete your cross-country ski lessons in classic technique, here is the proper way to herringbone.

Just like using the snowplow to slow or stop your forward progress, the herringbone with its higher tempo and shorter steps is your key for climbing steeper hills that you can't ascend by staying in the track-set trail. Don't herringbone in the track!

In fact, the “V” or wedge herringbone is the opposite of the snowplow. Your ski tips are apart and your tails are together. The steeper the hill, the further the tips are apart. Like the snowplow, your skis should be on their inside edges so they push against the snow. If they are flat, you will slide back.

Like the diagonal stride, your poles should be at an angle behind you to stop you from sliding back. And like the diagonal stride, your right arm (at a right angle) moves forward at the same time as you lift your left ski and step forward (diagonal). Then, left arm and right ski. It's important to step forward enough that your stepping ski doesn't land on the back of the stopped ski.

Like the diagonal stride and snowplow, ankles should be flexed, knees bent, leaning forward and your weight centred on each ski.

"All while looking forward uphill. I find students look down at the trail which is less efficient. Looking to the top of the hill keep one’s weight correctly over the skis," says Kelowna Nordic Ski and Snowshoe Club instructor Marshall Moleschi.

Here are some other tips:

If you find that you are not getting the maximum grip from your waxless skis, i.e., you are putting your weight on each ski but it is slipping backwards, rub the skins or fishscale on the bottom of the ski toward the ski tip to check their condition. Less grip means skins should be replaced.

If the fishscale is clogged by wax it picked up on the trail (or if you inadvertently got glide wax in there when waxing), clean it with liquid wax remover. Once clean, run your fingers toward the ski tip to check the resistance. If the scales aren't sharp, your waxless skis are likely worn out. You can save them as rock skis for the beginning of the season or give them to someone learning how to ski (and falling all over them).

When buying new and used skis with skins or fishscale, check their resistance as well as whether the used skis have any gouges or edges are worn. More aggressive skins and fishscale will allow you to climb hills easier but slow you down on the flat and downhill sections. Once you advance from beginner to intermediate skier, it becomes a personal choice.

For those who use waxable skis, examine the grip zone under your foot. There are so many more variables in waxable skis: the temperature range of the wax (which should match the snow temperature), the type of wax (recreational versus racing), the length of the grip zone and its location.

For ideal skiing, you should determine the exact location of your best grip zone based on camber. Camber is the upward curve of the middle of the ski when it is bottom down. You need the proper upward curve to match your weight (plus skis, poles, backpack, etc.) and your skiing ability.

Ski shops use a camber gauge with two thin sliding metal plates which stop when they reach the front and back of your zone (all your weight on one ski.) The cheap way to do it at home is to take one-by-six-inch pieces of paper and place them every couple of inches under the middle of the ski. When you press one foot down on one ski, your assistant should try to pull out the pieces of paper.

If the pieces don't come out at all (quite a large gripping zone, especially with well-used skis), the camber is too soft. If the paper comes out easily throughout, the ski is too stiff (or you're not putting all of your weight on that ski). Racers love stiff skis while many recreational skiers like less camber, especially when they get tired later in the day.

The Sheriff likes to mark the front and back of the zone on the side of the ski with a magic marker which can be rubbed off if you adjust the zone.

Photo: J.P. Squire

For ideal skiing, you should determine the exact location of your best grip zone based on camber. Camber is the upward curve of the middle of the ski when it is bottom down. You need the proper upward curve to match your weight (plus skis, poles, backpack, etc.) and your skiing ability.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.