Preparing your bike for the upcoming riding season

Photo: J.P. Squire

On a 24-speed bike, using the smallest sprocket at the front and the largest sprocket at the back means the chain will be at a large angle creating more noise and lots of wear on the chain and sprockets.

This is the fifth and final column in the series on maintenance, repair and riding your bike or e-bike.

Most cyclists don't pedal fast enough.

The best pedalling cadence is at least 60 strokes (or revolutions) per minute, at least once per second. The goal is to choose a gear, from many, many gears, that will maintain the same workload on your body—not the same bike speed—regardless of the terrain, whether you are going up or down.

When approaching a stop sign, red traffic light or hill, gear down before pedalling becomes too difficult. Then you are ready to accelerate in the correct gear and don't have to downshift under load, possibly damaging the chain and/or the gears. To avoid shifting under load, take the pressure off your pedals before changing gears.

You may not realize it but there is duplication in your gearing with a typical 24-speed regular bike. Having three sprockets at the front and eight sprockets on the back cassette doesn't provide 24 different gear ratios. The reality is there are about 12 to 15 usable gear combinations. If you upshift in the front sprockets and downshift in the rear cassette, you can produce the same gear ratio.

Keep in mind some combinations, such as using the smallest sprocket at the front and the largest sprocket at the back, means the chain will be at an angle causing lots of noise and wear on the chain and sprockets. It would be a duplication of using the middle sprocket on the front with a middle sprocket at the back but producing minimal wear and noise.

It can be confusing because the small sprocket in the front (No. 1 or “granny” gear) is for easy low speed and the large sprocket (No. 3) is for high speed. In the rear cassette, it is the reverse—the small sprocket goes very fast for high speed and large sprocket goes very slow for low speed.

You are probably going to use the middle sprocket of a three-ring chainring on the front most of the time, going up and down on the eight-ring cassette on the rear wheel. To remember which shifter is which—right rear. It's the same for brake levers.

Many experienced riders use a gear change technique called "overshoot" by pushing the gear change lever past the usual point which snaps the chain onto the next gear ring.

Some bikes come with gear number displays on the handlebars but you don't need them. Shift by feel. If pedalling gets more difficult, shift to a lower (easier) gear. If pedalling get easier, shift to a higher gear.

Always use both brakes. Remember, right rear. Don't lock up the front brake, especially when coming downhill and especially if there is loose material on the pavement or trail. Instead, push your weight to the rear and use more rear brake. Remember that rim (caliper) brakes can slip when wet, muddy or inadvertently lubricated with chain lube.

As a safety and courteous practise, the Bike Sheriff has an electronic two-tone bell (from Princess Auto) and he explains to fellow riders the different use of the tones. The traditional bell sound warns other cyclists and pedestrians in front of your arrival and passing mode and the siren warns those you are riding with that someone is approaching from the rear and wants to pass (like an emergency vehicle).

Make bike security a high priority. Even bike shops aren't immune to theft. There is not a bike shop in the Southern Interior which hasn't had a break-in or attempted break-in.

One bumper sticker seen around warns: "Cable locks are a thief's best friend." They can be cut in seconds with a wire cutter or bolt cutter. Friends have had bikes stolen when only left for a matter of minutes with a cable lock.

Chain locks, U-locks and folding metal locks are better but they are not foolproof if a thief has a cordless grinder with cutoff discs even though those are noisy and produce a lot of sparks. A U-lock or folding lock can attach the frame and rear wheel to a stationary post. A secondary chain or cable can secure the front wheel as a visual deterrent - two locks to cut.

Last but not least, don't wear underwear under your padded bike shorts. It takes away from the features of the shorts. And wash them regularly!

Next week: Where to hike and cycle.

Photo: J.P. Squire

Chain locks, U-locks and folding metal locks are better than cables which can easily be severed with a cable cutter or wire cutter. A U-lock or folding lock can attach the frame and rear wheel to a stationary post, above. A secondary cable can secure the front wheel.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.