Importance of a good lock to foil thieves who want your bike

Photo: J.P. Squire

Bike locks are available in a variety of sizes, materials and prices, from cable locks to chains to U-locks to folding-metal locks.

This is the fourth and final part in a series on bicycle riding, maintenance and repairs gleaned from free clinics hosted by Garry Norkum, owner of Cyclepath in Kelowna (plus a few from the Sheriff). First up, how to try to prevent bike theft.

• Make bike security a high priority. The Orchard Park and Capri Shopping centres in Kelowna are the worst places for bike theft. Even bike shops aren't immune. There is not a bike shop in Kelowna that hasn't had a break-in or attempted break-in.

• One bumper sticker seen around the city warns: "Cable locks are a thief's best friend." They can be cut in seconds with a wire cutter or bolt cutter. Friends have had bikes stolen when only left for a matter of minutes with a cable lock.

• Chain locks are better and U-locks are the best but they are not foolproof if a thief has a cordless grinder with cutoff discs. However, those are noisy and produce a lot of sparks. "Chains and U-locks are heavy but they are good exercise," says Norkum with a grin.

• A U-lock or folding metal lock can attach the frame and rear wheel to something very strong such as a street bike rack or stationary post. Ideally, a secondary chain or cable can secure the front wheel as a visual deterrent. Some bikes now come with a built-in Abus rim lock.

• You should also register your bike with a photo and its serial number on Garage529. It now includes more than 400 law enforcement agencies, universities, bike clubs and bike shops, and has three million registered users around the world. Bike theft has been reduced by as much as 70% in some areas.

• Some modern pedals come with cleat attachments on one side of the pedal and a flat surface on the other, so you have the choice to clip in or not during your ride. Leg power is more efficient if you are clipped in (360 degrees of power) but you must be adept at unclipping with a sudden, unexpected stop. Clipped-in cyclists have all toppled over at some point.

Photo: Contributed

Bike seats are manufactured in a variety of shapes, sizes and comfort levels. The ultimate comfort, above, combines a plush faux sheepskin cover, two layers of foam, a comfort or cruiser saddle with springs, and a Cane Creek Thudbuster seat post with rubber stopper cushioning - almost equivalent to the rear shock on a full-suspension mountain bike.

• Some shoes for road cyclists now come with bigger cleats but there are rubber covers so cyclists don’t slide (and click) when walking around.

• Cycling-specific shoes have a stiff sole. If you use running shoes with a soft sole, you not only lose power but your toes can curl over the front of the pedal producing toe burn or "hot spots." Pedals are your platform for propulsion so you might want larger pedals; they come in many shapes and sizes, says Norkum.

• Rim (caliper) brakes can slip when wet, muddy or inadvertently contaminated with chain lubricant. "Definitely, disc brakes are more consistent and don't fade," says Norkum.

• The quick-release on axles should be pressed down with the palm of your hand temporarily when remounting a wheel. Once the bike is upright and wheels are back on the ground, undo the quick release and retighten it with the pressure of two fingers. Check that the tire and rim are centred in the brake area.

• Some tires are thicker and puncture-resistant. You can also squirt in Slime Tube Sealant to seal any leaks as they occur. However, as Slime ages (six months to a year), it can ball up and you can hear it rolling around. Then it's time for a new tube or fresh Slime inside a tubeless tire. Slime can also be used with dirt bikes, wheelbarrows and riding mowers for up to two years. (Caution: If a tubeless tire is slashed and doesn't seal, Slime is messy when you try to insert a spare tube to get you home.

• Don't use automotive fluids on disc brakes. If you get chain lubricant or degreaser on a disc, clean it off with rubbing alcohol.

• Don't wear underwear under your padded bike shorts as it takes away from the features of the bike shorts. You get what you pay for—$40 versus $100.

• Manufacturers are starting to make drop seats (controlled by a switch or lever on the handlebars) standard equipment for lowering the seat so your feet are flat on the ground when stopped at a traffic light and for lowering your hind-end weight when descending hills. When you take your weight off the saddle and press the lever, the seat springs back up.(Starting at $200)

• Your bike bag should include a spare tube, set of three tire levers, a repair kit with glueless patches (they take up less space), a CO2 inflator and two cartridges, a tire marker, surgical gloves (to keep your hands clean as well as for some warmth when chilly outside), small wetwipes for cleanups, a backup pump with correct nozzle for Schrader (old-style, automotive) and Presta tire valves, a metric Allan key set, a chain repair tool, a small amount of money and perhaps anti-chafing cream.

• Most Kelowna cyclists with regular bikes stay on flat terrain.

"Unless you are doing cardio five days a week, you are not going up steep hills," says Norkum.

One answer, of course, is an e-bike. Its pedal-assist feels like someone is pedalling along with you.

There are two basic e-bike motor choices—mid-drive (like a motorcycle) or rear hub drive. The weight of the mid-drive motor is lighter and more centred. Many shops don't recommend rear hub-drive motors for serious mountain biking because there is so much more weight is in the rear.

• When purchasing an e-bike, it's important to test it it where you ride, advises Norkum.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.