Riding, maintenance and repair tips for cyclists

Photo: J.P Squire

These are some of the essentials for tire repair: tire levers (hook end fits around spokes), rubber cement and patches (if not glueless type patches), CO2 inflator, cartridge and backup pump. Use of tire sealant will hopefully avoid most flat tires. Fill the small container of sealant from the large container to use the current amount.

This is the second part in a series on bicycle riding, maintenance and repairs.

Here is a point-form summary with tips from Garry Norkum, owner of Cyclepath in Kelowna, which has offered free bicycle riding and maintenance clinics for several years (plus a few from the Sheriff).

First up is how to get as comfortable as possible on your bike or e-bike.

• Depending on the manufacturer, bike frames can come in as many as five sizes, measured from the centre of the crank to the top of the tube where you insert the seat post. The bicycle-guider.com website says there are seven ways to measure a bike. The simplest method to determine the correct frame is using your height to determine a hybrid bike size:

• Four feet 11 inches to five feet three inches = 13 to 15 inches

• Five feet three inches to five feet seven inches = 15 to 16 inches

• Five feet seven inches to five feet 11 inches = 16 to 17 inches

• Six feet to six feet two inches = 17 to 19 inches

• Six feet two inches to six feet four inches = 19 to 21 inches

• Six feet four inches and taller = 21-plus inches.

Keep in mind, these are general guidelines, but one bike size wrong can make a huge difference.

• Raising the stem that holds the handlebars will shift more weight from your hands to your bum. Road racers can use a small narrow saddle because they bend over placing a lot of their weight on their hands. When you sit more upright, you are more likely to need a larger saddle. A bigger seat is not necessarily better, though, because it depends on your “sitbones.” Feel how far apart they are with your thumb and forefinger, hold that distance and see if it matches the soft parts of your prospective new seat.

Some stems are adjustable (about $25 and $30) and saddles can be as inexpensive as $35 to $45. Those are usually the two major items that shops change. You can also switch out handlebars, raising your hands even higher.

Photo: J.P. Squire

To get your frame size, measure the distance from the centre of the crank to the top of the vertical tube which holds your seat post. This XL frame has a distance of 21 inches so it is generally suitable for a rider six feet four inches and taller.

• Most saddles are mounted on a rail so they can be adjusted back and forth as well as angled. A level can be used to ensure the saddle is perfectly flat. Saddles with a slot or soft spot in the middle eliminate pressure on that part of the body.

• Too many cyclists have their saddles adjusted too low. A half-inch can be critical. If you raise your toes with your leg straight while seated, your heel should clear the pedal as you swing the leg forward, says Norkum. When riding, your knees should be slightly bent when your foot is at the lowest part of the pedal stroke.

• If your saddle is too high, you can have hip issues. Your bum will rock back and forth sideways, says Norkum.

• Once your saddle is at the correct height, scratch the post next to the quick release to mark the spot. Magic Marker wears off.

• Tubes are porous, so they leak. Check tire pressure regularly—hybrids once a week, road tires every two to four days.

• Tire levers are only used to remove the edge of a tire. Use them opposite the valve stem and slip the hook end under a spoke.

• Once a flat tube is removed, the hole found and marked (tire still on rim), place the tube valve next to the valve hole in the rim. Cup your hand over the tube outside the tire tread and slide your hands and tube around the tire and rim until you get to the marked hole in the tube. That's where (on the tire) you will hopefully find whatever caused the flat, eg. A nail, glass or, especially in the South Okanagan, a cactus thorn or puncture vine barb. Feel with your fingers inside the tire as well to see if the puncture-producer is there.

• The inside of rims have rim strips that separate the tube from the ends of the spokes. However, strips can shift and wear out so check them when you repair a flat or replace a worn tire.

• When using a new tube, inflate it slightly, which makes it easier to insert under the tire.

• If you push the edge of the tire deep into the rim, you can usually roll the last bit of tire edge onto the rim with both your hands, all the way around, without using the tire levers. If you leave the tire out in the sun for 10 minutes, it becomes more pliable.

• Don't use the ends of your fingers to roll the tire back onto the rim, use the palms of your hands. You'll have more power to roll it onto the rim. If the last bit of tire edge doesn't want to go over the rim, press with your hands along the opposite side of the tire, pull and stretch the rubber tire like an elastic band.

• If the valve is crooked after inflating, let a little air out and move the tire around the rim enough to straighten the valve out. As well, when a tube is under-inflated, the tire can move around and make the valve crooked.

• Always use both brakes. Remember right rear. Same with shifters—right rear. Don't lock up the front brake, especially when coming downhill. Instead, push your weight to the rear and use more rear brake. Front brakes produce more braking power (try it on your bike).

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.