And introduction to snowshoeing

Photo: Contributed

Roseanne Van Ee was the snowshoe guide for thousands during more than 20 years at Silver Star Mountain Resort. "I started snowshoeing in my teens in Edmonton with wood and sinews I found in our garage to get around the river valley where we lived. In college, my Cree friends showed me more. That's when we used candle wick for harnesses. Then I snowshoed in northern Quebec on Canada World Youth with trappers. I was a weirdo, outdoor enthusiast geek. So I ordered those plastic Beavertail snowshoes and convinced Silver Star to let me try tours. They thought it was a crazy idea but let me give it a try. I was on my own. Then I saw Tubbs coming from Vermont, ordered a pair and I was hooked. The rest is history."

Snowshoeing is the ultimate Canadian winter recreation because it's easy to try, relatively inexpensive, you can do it almost anywhere there is snow and you can see what your favourite summer trails look like in the winter.

Snowshoeing has evolved from an essential mode of winter transportation into a popular recreational activity that is an excellent low-impact aerobic exercise, a great social activity and is suitable for all ages and abilities. The old adage is: if you can walk, you can snowshoe.

Everyone expressing interest wants to know how to get started. So the Sheriff prepared the following guide, humourously entitled “Snowshoeing for Dummies.”

The first step is acquiring snowshoes, but which to buy and what to look for? Rather than making the initial investment and perhaps making the wrong choice, borrow a pair (or two) from friends or rent from the 12 downhill resorts and cross-country ski areas in the Southern Interior to check out different brands, features and prices.

If trying a friend's pair or renting, bring the insulated, waterproof winter boots that are comfortable for several hours of hiking to make sure the bindings work for your footwear. The snowshoe footbed has a swivel point in front where you put the ball of your foot but not so far forward that your toe hits the snowshoe base.

Tighten the toe first, then cinch up the back strap, says former guide Roseanne Van Ee of Vernon aka The Okanagan’s Nature Nut.

Snowshoes vary in size from small trail runners (if you want to jog) to larger models effective in deep snow floatation. As a general rule, multiply the width in inches by the length in inches to match your weight in pounds, including your clothing, boots and backpack. (Sorry, it just doesn't work in centimetres and kilograms.)

The Sheriff has several pairs for different conditions. His small Tubbs are eight inches by 20 inches or 160 pounds. The large Snow Mountain (Costco) pair are nine inches by 30 inches or 270 pounds. If you plan to only go on packed trails, buy the small, narrow snowshoes. For deep snow trekking, buy big. If you have both and don't know the conditions, one pair can always be attached to your backpack for switching.

Crampons, the teeth on the bottom of snowshoes, are crucial for climbing, descending and icy trails. Usually the larger, the better. Some come with saw-like rails for even more traction. Get a snowshoe bag because those crampons are murder on floors, vehicle upholstery, etc.

You can try them out by first walking around your backyard, local park or nearby trail.

You don't have to walk with a slightly wider distance between your feet, says Van Ee.

"Just get used to one snowshoe stepping ahead of the other she “says.

In deep snow, raise your feet higher than you would normally.

Many instructors say poles are optional. The Sheriff, unbalanced for most of his life, feels they are crucial for balance and control, especially when snowshoeing up hills, down hills and going cross-hill. You might have two sets of poles with adjustable lengths (keep your arms at a 90-degree angle)—one equipped with small snow baskets for packed (and tight) trails, and one with large baskets for deep snow.

If packed trails are tight, you don't want large baskets catching on every branch beside the trail. Some hiking poles come with optional baskets so they can be used year-round.

If your footing is uncertain, spread your arms with poles out to the side. Plant your poles for stability before putting your snowshoe on that downed tree trunk.

When climbing a hill, lean forward and use your toe crampons for grip (point your toe into the hill). With soft snow, "slide the front of your snowshoe up," says Van Ee. Some snowshoes come with a heel lift, climbing bar or televator which raises the back of your foot to a neutral position when doing a long climb.

When descending a hill, bend your knees, weight slightly back, poles a little longer and forward for balance, and make sure your crampons are digging in the snow. If your snowshoes start to slide, sit down. If you fall on a hill, remove the pole straps, place your body uphill of your snowshoes, turn your snowshoes sideways to the hill, push onto your knees and stand up. If the snow is soft, grab the middle of your poles and push them against the snow as you rise. In really soft snow, cross the poles.

If you are traversing or going sideways across a hillside, the uphill snowshoe should dig into the slope to make a flat surface to stand on and then keep your weight mainly on that snowshoe. If you have adjustable poles, shorten your uphill pole and lengthen your downhill pole.

Don't try to walk backwards (dare your friends to try) but do a U-turn by shuffling in a semi-circle.

As for attire, dress for winter conditions using non-cotton layers which can be removed before you start to sweat and get cold. Use a waterproof, breathable shell jacket and pants on top. "Good warm mitts or gloves are much more environmentally-friendly than disposable handwarmers," says Van Ee.

The Sheriff highly recommends gators if your snowshoes always seem to kick snow onto the back of the legs.

"A good pair of snowshoes shouldn’t kick snow onto your legs. That’s why I like Tubbs," says Van Ee.

Photo: J.P. Squire

The proper placement of your boot in the snowshoe harness is crucial. The ball of your foot (the portion of the foot between your arch and toes) should be across the swivel point at the front of each snowshoe but not so far forward that your boot toe hits the snowshoe base. Tighten the toe strap first, then cinch up the back strap.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.