Where to cycle in the Southern Interior

Let's go cycling

Photo: J.P. Squire

Colleen MacDonald and her husband, Ian, model her new Let's Go Biking cycling tops during a trip to the Okanagan to check out more trails. She also produced Let's Go Biking neck tubes several years ago.

Without question, the most common query received by the Sheriff and Constant Companion Carmen during their 27 years of outdoor recreation adventures is: "Where do you go?"

It doesn't matter whether it's hiking, biking, kayaking, horseback riding, snowshoeing, downhill or cross-country skiing, all people want is for the Sheriff to tell them where to go.

The Sheriff (and now CCC) have travelled to numerous other countries, thanks to the travel bug inherited from the Sheriff's mother—visited more than 80 countries and have written two self-published travel guides.

Photo: Colleen MacDonald

Lower Mainland author and outdoor enthusiast Colleen MacDonald has self-published a guidebook entitled Let's Go Biking Okanagan and Beyond which is available at numerous Okanagan outlets.

To date, their visited countries include numerous trips to the continental U.S., Hawaii, Mexico, Central America, South America, Caribbean, England, France, Italy, Spain, Portugal, Greece, Egypt, Thailand and Cambodia. The pair are always looking for sights and sounds not found in the Southern Interior. There are so many unique places around the world, from the Grand Canyon, Bryce and Zion national parks to Rome's Coliseum, Egypt's Pyramids and Cambodia's Angkor Wat. But, descending on the Okanagan Connector or flying into Kelowna, that first sight of the Okanagan Valley always brings a tear.

People from across Canada and other countries who come to the Okanagan have often commented that this is one of the most beautiful places in the world and the Sheriff has come to truly appreciate the chamber of commerce nickname—the “Four Season Playground.”

So far, the couple have not found anywhere they have travelled where there is this same variety and scope of outdoor activities as the Okanagan.

Since the Sheriff moved to “paradise” in 1980, there has been an ever-increasing focus on outdoor recreation. Samples include the historic Myra Canyon (the best section of the Trans Canada Trail), the Okanagan Rail Trail, Shuswap North Okanagan Rail Trail and Trail of the Okanagans, just to name a few world-class features. And in the winter, what other region has a dozen downhill and cross-country ski areas within a two-hour drive?

The Sheriff has the enviable position of enjoying all this playtime while writing this Making Tracks column (since 1983) and telling like-minded people where to go.

They often suggest he write a guide book. Well, he did and you can find it chapter by chapter in the Castanet archives (https://www.castanet.net/news/Making-Tracks/).

For instance, during the summer of 2023, he revealed Secret Okanagan Spots in his SOS series. During the summer of 2024, he listed his favourite trails.

However, those only scratched the surface. So the Sheriff has planned a new series for this year of exploration, a listing of the best Southern Interior trails: city by city, regional district by regional district. So, if that doesn't get you out...

For newbies, as well as experienced cyclists, the best starting place is the popular guide book, Let's Go Biking Okanagan and Beyond, by Lower Mainland author Colleen MacDonald.

"I wrote the book I would want to buy for myself to discover the Okanagan," she explains.

"I knew many of the routes but wanted to know where the locals ride. With the help of dozens of people throughout the Okanagan and beyond, I had fun putting together a great gathering of easy and fun routes."

She initially started an online blog, Let's Go Biking, with 10 easy rides after a friend asked where could they go biking (in the Lower Mainland) with their kids?" Her website, letsgobiking.net, grew to more than 200 rides, so she self-published, Let's Go Biking Around Vancouver, in 2018. MacDonald didn't stop there. In 2022, she wrote a guidebook for Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands and the Sunshine Coast.

She's now started Let's Go Biking Around the World with the first two rides in the Dolomites (northern Italy).

Let's Go Biking Okanagan and Beyond has 36 easy-to-follow maps and 108 routes with turn-by-turn instructions, surface conditions and level of difficulty. Of course, it has the most popular routes—the Kettle Valley Rail (KVR) Trail, Myra Canyon, Mission Creek Greenway and Okanagan Rail Trail, for example. But it also has new routes such as East Kelowna – Vistas and Vines, the Similkameen Valley, Summerland Loop and the Fur Brigade Trail and Exploring Oliver and Osoyoos.

Let’s Go Biking Okanagan and Beyond retails for $19.95, and is available at Mosaic Books on Bernard Avenue in Kelowna; Chapters and Coles stores in Penticton, Kelowna and Vernon; Books ‘n' Things in Penticton; Davison Orchards, Olympia Cycle and Good Gracious Gifts in Vernon; and Otter Books in Nelson. It is also sold at local wineries, farms, bike shops and gift shops.

Photo: Colleen MacDonald

If you need someone to tell you where to go, Colleen MacDonald's Let's Go Biking Okanagan and Beyond has details on 108 routes in the Southern Interior, above. Her guidebook has 36 easy-to-follow maps with turn-by-turn instructions, surface conditions and level of difficulty.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

Preparing your bike for the upcoming riding season

More bicycle riding tips

Photo: J.P. Squire

On a 24-speed bike, using the smallest sprocket at the front and the largest sprocket at the back means the chain will be at a large angle creating more noise and lots of wear on the chain and sprockets.

This is the fifth and final column in the series on maintenance, repair and riding your bike or e-bike.

Most cyclists don't pedal fast enough.

The best pedalling cadence is at least 60 strokes (or revolutions) per minute, at least once per second. The goal is to choose a gear, from many, many gears, that will maintain the same workload on your body—not the same bike speed—regardless of the terrain, whether you are going up or down.

When approaching a stop sign, red traffic light or hill, gear down before pedalling becomes too difficult. Then you are ready to accelerate in the correct gear and don't have to downshift under load, possibly damaging the chain and/or the gears. To avoid shifting under load, take the pressure off your pedals before changing gears.

You may not realize it but there is duplication in your gearing with a typical 24-speed regular bike. Having three sprockets at the front and eight sprockets on the back cassette doesn't provide 24 different gear ratios. The reality is there are about 12 to 15 usable gear combinations. If you upshift in the front sprockets and downshift in the rear cassette, you can produce the same gear ratio.

Keep in mind some combinations, such as using the smallest sprocket at the front and the largest sprocket at the back, means the chain will be at an angle causing lots of noise and wear on the chain and sprockets. It would be a duplication of using the middle sprocket on the front with a middle sprocket at the back but producing minimal wear and noise.

It can be confusing because the small sprocket in the front (No. 1 or “granny” gear) is for easy low speed and the large sprocket (No. 3) is for high speed. In the rear cassette, it is the reverse—the small sprocket goes very fast for high speed and large sprocket goes very slow for low speed.

You are probably going to use the middle sprocket of a three-ring chainring on the front most of the time, going up and down on the eight-ring cassette on the rear wheel. To remember which shifter is which—right rear. It's the same for brake levers.

Many experienced riders use a gear change technique called "overshoot" by pushing the gear change lever past the usual point which snaps the chain onto the next gear ring.

Some bikes come with gear number displays on the handlebars but you don't need them. Shift by feel. If pedalling gets more difficult, shift to a lower (easier) gear. If pedalling get easier, shift to a higher gear.

Always use both brakes. Remember, right rear. Don't lock up the front brake, especially when coming downhill and especially if there is loose material on the pavement or trail. Instead, push your weight to the rear and use more rear brake. Remember that rim (caliper) brakes can slip when wet, muddy or inadvertently lubricated with chain lube.

As a safety and courteous practise, the Bike Sheriff has an electronic two-tone bell (from Princess Auto) and he explains to fellow riders the different use of the tones. The traditional bell sound warns other cyclists and pedestrians in front of your arrival and passing mode and the siren warns those you are riding with that someone is approaching from the rear and wants to pass (like an emergency vehicle).

Make bike security a high priority. Even bike shops aren't immune to theft. There is not a bike shop in the Southern Interior which hasn't had a break-in or attempted break-in.

One bumper sticker seen around warns: "Cable locks are a thief's best friend." They can be cut in seconds with a wire cutter or bolt cutter. Friends have had bikes stolen when only left for a matter of minutes with a cable lock.

Chain locks, U-locks and folding metal locks are better but they are not foolproof if a thief has a cordless grinder with cutoff discs even though those are noisy and produce a lot of sparks. A U-lock or folding lock can attach the frame and rear wheel to a stationary post. A secondary chain or cable can secure the front wheel as a visual deterrent - two locks to cut.

Last but not least, don't wear underwear under your padded bike shorts. It takes away from the features of the shorts. And wash them regularly!

Next week: Where to hike and cycle.

Photo: J.P. Squire

Chain locks, U-locks and folding metal locks are better than cables which can easily be severed with a cable cutter or wire cutter. A U-lock or folding lock can attach the frame and rear wheel to a stationary post, above. A secondary cable can secure the front wheel.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

Caring for your bike much easier with these techniques

Bicycle maintenance tips

Photo: J.P. Squire

A plastic chain-degreaser filled with biodegradable chain cleaner uses brushes to remove chain lube and dirt buildup. The leftover liquid from a second or third cleaning can be poured into a tuna can and a brush used to clean the cassette and derailleur.

This is the fourth column in a series about maintenance, repair and riding tips for your bike or e-bike.

Use dry lube chain lubrication in the hot and dry Okanagan, not WD-40, not cooking oil, not automotive engine oil or motorcycle chain lube (the latter has higher chain speeds). Dry lube is thin, evaporates and leaves a Teflon lubricant on the chain.

Use a biodegradable chain cleaner. A plastic chain-degrease chamber with brushes does a decent job of removing grease and dirt buildup. Use often, especially after dry, dusty trails.

You can move the braided edge of a dishcloth soaked in cleaner up and down to clean chain rings. A stiff brush can also clean the chain ring and the derailleur using the leftover liquid from the second or third chain cleaning (in a tuna can) if it's not too dirty.

Don't use automotive fluids on disc brakes. If you get chain lube or degreaser on a disc, clean it off with rubbing alcohol.

Tire levers are only used to remove a flat tire or to replace it but not to remount it. Use tire levers opposite the valve stem. When remounting the tire, push the edges of the tire deep into the rim. Don't use the ends of your fingers to roll the tire back onto the rim but use the palms of your hands for more power.

If the last bit of tire doesn't want to go over the rim, press with your hands along the opposite side of the tire, pull and stretch the rubber tire like an elastic band. If you leave the tire out in the sun for 10 minutes, it becomes more pliable.

When mounting a tubeless tire, the Sheriff wipes tire sealant around both sides of the tire rim to ensure a good seal. A sharp blast of air is needed to pop the tire rim out.

Once a flat tube is removed, hole found and marked (tire still on rim), place the tube valve next to the valve hole in the rim. Cup your hand over the tube outside the tire tread and slide your hands and tube around the tire and rim until you get to the marked hole in the tube. That's where (on the tire) you will hopefully find whatever caused the flat, e.g. nail, glass or especially in the South Okanagan, a cactus thorn or puncture vine needle.

Some tires are thicker and puncture-resistant. You can also use Slime tube sealant to seal any leaks as they occur either in tube or tubeless tires. The Sheriff bought the single-dose bottle and a large bottle which he uses to refill the single-dose bottle.

As Slime ages, it can ball up and you can sometimes hear it rolling around inside a tube tire. Then it's time for a new tube. Slime can also be used in dirt bikes, wheelbarrows and riding mowers.

When using a new tube, inflate it slightly to make it easier to insert under the tire. If the tube valve is crooked after inflating, let a little air out and move the tire and tube around the rim enough to straighten it out. When a tube is under-inflated, the tire can move around while you are cycling.

The inside of a rim has a rim strip which separates the tube from the ends of the spokes. However, strips can shift and wear out so check them if you are repairing a flat or replacing a worn tire. A rim strip also keeps the air in a tubeless tire.

When placing the rear tire and rim back on the upside-down bike, it will be easier (the chain will be loose) if the chain is on the smallest gear at the front and the smallest gear at the rear. Pull the end of the derailleur to the rear as you slide the tire/rim back into the axle slots.

The bracket on rim brakes (not disc brakes) must be undone to get the tire/rim on and off. But don't forget to reset it and check that brake pads are properly aligned. Toe in slightly can reduce or eliminate squealing.

The quick release on the axle should be pressed down with the palm of your hand. Once the bike is upright, undo the quick release and re-tighten it with the pressure of two fingers. Check that the tire and rim are centred in the brake area.

Photo: J.P. Squire

The technique used to remove and replace the rear bicycle tire is switching the chain to the smallest gear on the rear cassette so the chain is as loose as it gets, then pulling the end of the derailleur to the rear as you slide the tire/rim back into the axle slots.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.

Seven-day Isla Espiritu Santo paddle full of ups and downs

Baja kayak adventure

Photo: J.P. Squire

Isla Espiritu Santo is famous for its endless pink cliffs of ash flow tuff - compressed ashes from volcanic eruptions. The cliffs and sculptures carved by erosion are along both sides of deep fjord-like bays on its west coast.

Towering pink cliffs. Twenty white sand beaches. Flying manta rays. Swimming with curious California sea lion pups. Snorkeling with tropical fish. Endless pelicans and herons keeping human paddlers company.

A seven-day kayak adventure around Isla Espiritu Santo, 27 kilometres north of La Paz, Mexico had numerous highlights, not to mention making new outdoor friends from across the U.S.

Baja Outdoor Activities, now known as Indomito, describes it as “The Jewel of the Sea of Cortez” and "one of the planet's iconic sea kayaking destinations." This Mexican National Park island is a UNESCO biosphere reserve due to the proliferation of amazing wildlife above and below the water.

The La Paz-based company offers two options—fully-catered and co-operatively catered. For the latter, 12 paddlers participate in all the camping, cooking and kayak loading/unloading duties. The Kayak Sheriff and Constant Companion Carmen have survived numerous multi-day kayak camping expeditions on the B.C. coast and in the Southern Interior, so that was a given.

Photo: J.P. Squire

One of the highlights of a kayaking holiday in the Baja is swimming with sea lion pups at Los Islotes at the north end of Isla Espiritu Santo.

The kayakinbaja.com website (missing the 'g') explains the island circumnavigation is for beginner-intermediate kayakers with daily paddling times of 2.5 hours to 4.5 hours. The Sheriff doesn't know any beginners who could paddle that long every day for six days with one day off. This is definitely intermediate territory, depending on Mother Nature or perhaps Santo's spirit. More on that later. Translated, Isla Espiritu Santo is "Island of the Holy Spirit."

The island itself has fascinating geography—fjord-like bays deeply recessed on the west coast and cliffs more than 650 metres high along an undented shoreline on the east side. In fact, there is more than one island in the park, the main island, three small islands on the west side and large Isla Partida and diminutive Los Islotes (home to a sea lion colony) at the north end.

The key to any successful guided expedition like this is guides who are kayak safety instructors, knowledgeable about the area, cautious leaders, good cooks, first-aid savvy and used to lots of camping. They must also have a great sense of humour when spending 120 to 150 days every season to accommodate complete strangers.

Guides Tulio and Antonio would rank among the best, especially because they love everything that Isla Espiritu Santo has to offer.

"I really like the wildlife and just the different sceneries, all the different colours that you get from pink to white to black," said Tulio. "The jumping mantas are my favourite. I really enjoy those. I also like the mangroves. Yeah, all those moments are really nice. The interaction with people is nice too, just being able to show our guests what we like—in our 'office’—that we really appreciate."

While they prepared a delicious dinner one night, the Sheriff asked how many recipes they repeat during other expeditions. "None," responded Tulio. "But new guests wouldn't know," the Sheriff noted. "But we would know," he replied with a laugh.

The highlights included swimming with sea lion pups at Los Islotes. One guest did receive a gentle nip but one nuzzled the Sheriff's shoulder), snorkelling over coral outcroppings with a wide variety of reef fish and other creatures, manta rays unexpectedly leaping high in the air multiple times and sharing kayaking experiences with other paddlers from Seattle (who have explored the B.C. coast) and the U.S. east coast.

The trip's “ups” included checking out one incredible beach after another, paddling past endless cliff sculptures of ash flow tuff (compressed ashes from volcanic eruptions), past seals lying on the rocks, spying mountain goats perched on the slopes and listening to large flocks of noisy sea birds. The detailed instructions on how to use the porta-potti were hilarious.

The only real “down” was the result of Mother Nature (or the Holy Spirit) delivering wicked headwinds and ocean chop for several days. Mother Nature didn't stop producing that wind and ocean swells up to a metre high on the last day (talk about ups and downs).

On a personal note, the Sheriff paddled a Solstice Titan, which the guides admitted was "the biggest, heaviest (and slowest) kayak on the market." Add the aluminum kitchen table strapped to the back deck and the 90-minute, non-stop paddle on the last day was the most challenging the Sheriff has ever faced.

"Is it always this windy?" the Sheriff asked. "This isn't windy,” was the guide humorous response. “Wait until next week!"

The expedition didn't complete the scheduled circumnavigation, just paddling up, then down the west side because the east side had even stronger winds blowing.

Photo: J.P. Squire

Isla Espiritu Santo is a UNESCO biosphere reserve due to its proliferation of amazing wildlife. A wide variety of seabirds call the Mexican National Park island their home and keep a wary eye on kayakers.

This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.