A look at blush and Rosé (roe-zay) wines

The warm weather has finally arrived in BC and that means backyard BBQ’s. While our thoughts may turn to cold, thirst-quenching beers and crisp, mouth-watering whites, there is one other wine category that has been very badly mistreated over the last couple of decades. Granted, it is probably the fault of certain wine producers who have made appalling examples of the wine. However, it seems that there may be a revolution underway, albeit a quiet one. Rosé and blush wines are becoming the beverage of choice to enjoy when the weather turns warm.

Now, rosé and blush wine are two different names for the same wine with rosé being the European term while blush is a North American name. They can be produced strictly from red grapes or a combination of red and white wines, blended together to achieve a particular colour. Both wines can be awful or they can be spectacular, it just depends on how and what the winemaker wants to achieve. Both have been described as the red wine drinkers white wine because it can sometimes bridge the gap between the two styles, red and white.

The production of Rose involves breaking the skins of a red grape, allowing the juice to mix with the skins to extract some colour and some of the grape’s characteristics. Fermentation then continues as normal for a white wine, most often in stainless steel. The intensity of colour will vary, depending on the grape varieties used and the length of time the skins remain in contact with the juice. Extended skin contact will yield a wine almost red in colour while a very short maceration period may produce a wine that is nearly but not quite white. The finished wines are typically ready to drink early, not meant to age. The whole process is called Saignée (say-NAY), which means, “to bleed.”

Many so-called wine experts look down their noses at rose or blush wines, describing them as “simple” and “lacking complexity.” While this may be somewhat true in that they are not full-bodied red or lush white wines, the better rosés do have a complexity not found in other wines. A short time ago, no self-respecting wine drinker would touch the stuff, as pink wine meant sweet white zinfandel, tasting of candy floss and bubble gum. Then the wine world discovered the pleasures of superb French rosés, Italian rosatos and Spanish rosados, dry, crisp pink wines that are perfect for summertime dining. How can anyone be pretentious when they are drinking a pink wine? There is enough seriousness, if not downright snobbery about wine already. Rosés wines are all about fun and pleasure.

Good rosés are fruity, with high acidity and the best ones have the freshness of a white wine with some of the tannins and depth of a red. Out of fashion are the sugary, sweet wines such as White Zinfandel, White Merlot, and others of the same ilk. Crisp, dry rosés are becoming the trend and they are fantastic with typical summer fare, barbecues, and picnics. They are easy and light, perfect for a casual atmosphere, with a mild flavour and good acidity levels, allowing for pairing with a wide variety of foods and they are best enjoyed chilled and therefore are refreshing on a warm/hot afternoon.

This weekend, we take a look at some of the excellent roses that are on the market, both local and imported. On a hot, Okanagan day, these wines are fantastic.

One of the best BC rosés I have tried is the 2008 Joie Rosé ($25.90 PWS). A blend of Pinot Noir, Gamay and Pinot Gris, this is an intense wine with aromas of strawberry and cherry with a just a hint of sweetness but still dry and crisp. A superb Rosé not too unlike the classic Tavel Rosé of southern Rhone. All of the wines from Joie are sold out upon release from the winery and are only available in limited amounts at selected, private wine shops.

The 2006 Arrowleaf Red Feather ($13.90 PWS) is a blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay showing vibrant aromas and flavours of fresh pineapple, pink grapefruit, strawberry, cherry, raspberry, and ripe peach.  This flavoursome, well-balanced wine is perfect for picnics or on the patio before dinner. Finished with a screw cap for the ultimate in freshness.

A consistent ‘BC Best Buy Rosé’, the 2006 Sumac Ridge ‘Cellar Selection’ Rose ($12.90 PWS) is a blend of Gamay along with Ehrenfelser and Muscat. Loaded with fresh summer fruits like wild cherries, strawberry and lychee, from the Muscat, this is a great summer sipper, fermented dry, with a little spritzy and just a hint of sweetness to it.

The non-vintage Summerhill ‘Cipes’ Pinot Noir Brut ($35.90 PWS) is the perfect summer bubbly to start off a summer evening dinner party. This is a medium bodied wine that shows aromas and flavours of fresh raspberries, strawberries, and creamy sweet apple with hints of apricots, ripe peaches, pears and lime zest. Very thirst-quenching.

The 2007 Mission Hill Rose ($18 PWS) is a delicious blend of Merlot and Pinot Noir, sourced from vineyards from around Oliver, Naramata Bench, and Osoyoos. Boasting fresh aromas of ripe Bing cherry, cranberry, red plum, with hints of orange blossoms, watermelon, and pomegranate. The palate has just a hint of sweetness but balanced by crisp acidity allowing the fresh citrus and red fruits to shine through. We had this with spiced prawns, spicy pork Choy Mein and Lemon Chicken and it was superb.

A great tasting and one helluva deal, the 2007 Greata Ranch Rose ($11 PWS) is simply delicious. The deepest hue of pink I have ever seen, this is definitely a red wine drinkers Rose. Showcasing rich maraschino cherry, strawberry, raspberry aromas with subtle hints of pineapple, pink grapefruit and spicy ginger, the palate is crisp with just a suggestion of sweetness to it. Very clean and crisp on the finish, this is best served well chilled on a hot Okanagan day with simple appetizers and maybe a BBQ’d ham.

In Vino Veritas