Whenever Italian wines are mentioned, most of the time we immediately think of Tuscany and in particular Chianti with its straw-wrapped bottles or “fiaschi” as it is called. Others will think of Piedmont, in the northwestern region of Italy with its sought-after reds Barolo and Barbaresco. The wines of the northeast, Valpolicella and Amarone will earn a few votes because wine enthusiasts treasure these wines. However, for the most part, the regions of southern Italy are largely overlooked.

From Puglia, the “heel of the Italian boot,” to the island of Sicily, many of the wines of the South stand up to comparison with any other world wine region. Most Southern Italian producers shun the modern infatuation with "international" grapes and styles and rather than join the worldwide rush toward Chardonnay and Merlot, they proudly make wines from indigenous grapes in traditional styles.

Puglia or “Apulia” may be the best-known region of the South, gaining attention, in particular, for its fruity Primitivo reds. Thought to be related to the Zinfandel, DNA research has proved Zinfandel to be a clone of the Croatian variety Crljenak with Primitivo being a mutatation of Crljenak. It is being made in increasing quantities by a growing number of producers these days with some making it in an Italian style while others pursue the big, powerful and fruit-forward manner of Zinfandel.

Puglia produces 25 wines with the D.O.C. designation as well as 6 IGT zones with the best known of these being the Negroamaro-based reds of Salice Salentino, Squinzano, Brindisi and the Primitivo’s from Manduria. Surprisingly, Puglia rivals Sicily for being the largest producer of Italian wine. While some of the wines are only suitable for cleaning the sink, the best are dark and rich in colour, with powerful aromas of black cherry, anise, plum jam, hay, blackberry followed by hints of leather, earth, cinnamon and vanilla.

Directly to the west is the region of Campania, which forms the instep of the Italian “boot.”

The name Campania is said by some to have derived from the ancient tribe of Campani, the original inhabitants of the region as called by the ancient Greeks upon their colonization. Others speculate that the name stems from the Roman word for countryside, as this region became an escape for the wealthy Romans from the toils of city life, which is evidenced by the archaeological remains of many magnificent villas.

Sicily is the largest island in Mediterranean and if it were a nation, it would rank sixth in the world in wine production! Sicily has more vineyards than any of the other Italian regions competing with Apulia for first place as the largest wine producer due to its rich soil and dry climate, which are second to none for production of great grapes.

However, it has suffered with the reputation of being a producer and supplier of bulk wine to the rest of Italy and Europe. Now there is attention being placed on growing the well-known international grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah although some of these varieties cannot withstand the amount of heat in Sicily. The indigenous Nero D‘Avola is acknowledged as the key red grape variety of Sicily, and much time and energy is being spent on finding the best way to grow and vinify it.

Some producers are finding that while the popular varieties cannot stand the heat, Nero D’Avola loves it. Like Syrah, it can be very productive and vigorous, so that yields need to be strictly controlled. It also dislikes high humidity, but that is rarely a problem in Sicily. It is a grape that makes a rich, perfumed and velvety red wine that's easy to drink but that can take a bit of aging, works well in blends with other grapes, and can benefit from (but does not require) the judicious use of oak.

Marsala is the most famous wine of Sicily receiving its name form the Saracen Arabs who called it "Marsa el Allah," or Port of God, which is the basis of its present name. First produced by the Englishman John Woodhouse in 1773, it is a blend of regional varieties Grillo, Cataratto, Ansonia and Damaschino that are fortified during fermentation with the addition of distilled alcohol, usually grape brandy.

While it has the best reputation for the making of Tiramisu or Veal Marsala, on its own it is magic. Rich, unctuous, and full of sweet caramel and raisin characteristics, it is one of the finest dessert wines in the world. Everyone needs to have one in the house.

These regions are producing great wines that are typical of wines from a warmer, sunnier region where the tendency is to be ripe and robust. Yet many share the Italian reputation of sturdy structure and zippy acidity that make them the perfect accompaniment with food. They are the perfect wines to enjoy with the backyard B-B-Q.

Weekend Wine Picks:

The 2007 Montalto Nero D’Avola-Cabernet ($12.00 GLS) is a great valued red from Sicily. Full of ripe blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, and red plum jam-like aromas with subtle hints of leather, smoke, tobacco leaf, cocoa, and dried herbs. The palate is medium bodied with loads of juicy black fruit, herbs, and spice followed by soft acidity and velvety yet firm tannins. An excellent wine for the price.

One of the classic southern Italian reds and one of the pioneers of this area, the 2004 Taurino Salice Salento Riserva ($20-$22 PWS & GLS) is the best that this region can produce at this price. A wine of unmistakable personality, Taurino’s Salice Salentino has introduced most North Americans to the pleasure of the wines of Puglia. True, there are others less priced but bang-for-your-buck, the Taurino Salice over-delivers. Intense ruby red in colour with orange tints, look for loads of peppery black cherry, black raspberry aromas with licorice, roasted game, candied ginger and toasted almonds. Rich, round and concentrated with velvety acidity and firm tannins, the palate has good intensity with spicy licorice, black cherry, nutty, smoky prune flavours in a hearty rustic style but that is what Puglia is all about. Although not as “flashy” as some of the newer, international-style wines to emerge from Italy, Salice Salentino continues to be a favourite of Italian wine traditionalists and is consistently one of BC’s best sellers. A good match for grilled steak or pasta with mushrooms, ham, and cream.

A blend of Negroamaro and Cabernet, the 2006 Paiara ($11-$13 PWS & GLS) has an intense purple/ruby colour with gobs of viscosity. This wine has loads of fine jammy black cherry fruit and spice along with hints of leather and iris. A soft and supple wine, with good concentration, soft acidity, and firm tannins, this wine would be perfect with grilled lamb, a slab of prime rib or a creamy pasta sauce.

The name Neprica is a neat little combination of Negroamaro, Primitivo, and Cabernet grapes. The 2006 Tormaresca Neprica ($17-$19 PWS & GLS) is a dark, clear ruby red colour with highlights of cola and licorice on the nose and flavours of velvety dark spicy chocolate pudding and ripe blackberries. When I had this wine, I felt like summer and the BBQ was here. I love the complexity that the Negroamaro grape gives and this delicious blend results in a delicately spicy wine with gobs of black cherry fruit and notes of licorice. The palate is savoury with wonderful acidity and just the right degree of tannic structure.

Sourced from the southern end of Italy, on the ‘heel of the boot’, the 2007 Mezzomondo Negroamaro ($10-$12) over-delivers for the price. Chock-a-block full of juicy black cherry and blackberry aromas with violets, roses, plum/raspberry, toasty oak, and chocolate, the palate is rich, soft and round with firm acidity and tannins. This is the quintessential Italian bargain wine perfect with a rich pasta sauce or pizza.

From the region of Campania comes one of the best value wines on the market. The 2007 Benvenuto Barbera ($8-$10 PWS & GLS) is chock full of deliciously soft Barbera fruit. The supple black cherry and raspberry fruit aromas are complimented by layers of tobacco leaf, licorice, saddle leather, smoke with subtle hints of vanilla, roasted coffee and prune. The texture is soft and yielding with appetizing flavours of red and black fruit mixed with anise, leather, and peppery spice. A smokin’ great bargain, this is one wine that you can buy a case of and it will not hurt the pocket book. You cannot beat the price or the value!

In Vino Veritas