Gewurztraminer: pronounced (geh-VURTZ-trah-mean-er)

Of all the grape varieties used to make wine, Gewurztraminer is, for many people, the most difficult to pronounce and needless to say, it is the Rodney Dangerfield of grapes, as it gets little respect. In a world of grape varieties, Gewurztraminer can be equated to always being a bridesmaid but never a bride. Moreover the average person hesitates in ordering it in a restaurant because of the pronunciation, preferring the easier Chardonnay or Riesling.

Gewurztraminer, along with Sauvignon Blanc, is a relatively easy variety to identify due to its heady, pungent aromatics that it produces, so that even the novice wine drinker will be able recognize it when they smell it. Its aromas have been compared to lychee, rosewater, honeysuckle, mango and papaya, coconut, apricot, peach and allspice. It has a distinctive and intensely spicy bouquet and can be made in a wide range of styles from the very dry and crisp (Alsatian) to slightly sweet and flabby (California) to lusciously sweet dessert wines. A unique grape variety, it is capable of producing some of the world's most unforgettable wine.

While the French have achieved the greatest success with this grape, mainly in the Alsace region, and its name may be German, its history began in the Tyrollean Alps of Italy, near the village of Tramin in Alto Adige. The International Organisation of Vine and Wine (O.I.V.) states that it has been grown there since the Middle Ages, having been first recorded about the year 1000 A.D.

Over the course of the next 600 years, the grape mutated, adapting to its environment, as it moved to Germany then Alsace where the French began calling it Traminer Musqué, Traminer Parfumé, or Traminer Aromatique. (There is no recorded history of whom or what caused the mutation or how it came to be in Alsace) In Germany, it was called Roter Traminer, no doubt because of the red hue of the grape. It was in Germany that it obtained the “Gewurz” name, reflecting the spicy character of the grape. The name “Gewurz” literally means peppered or spicy.

Although “Gewurz” is a white wine, the skin of its berries can range in colour from amber-gold to rose-coloured to purple-tinged with a pink colour resulting in light to dark golden, yellow wines, depending upon the fruit ripeness. They have thick and tough skins which can reach amazingly high sugar levels, therefore alcohol levels can get quite high in dry versions. Harvesting time is very crucial. Grapes picked too early retain the acidity and if not allowed to hang on the vine until fully ripe, the characteristic varietal aromas and flavours will fail to develop.

Gewurztraminer cannot grow in ever type of climate but does very well in cooler regions and only in certain areas of California, Oregon and Washington State are conditions suitable. Here in BC, Gewurztraminer does very well, accounting for almost 15% of total white grapes planted (2008 BC Grape Acreage Report).

Here is a selection of spectacular Gewurzt’s currently on the market.

The grapes for the 2007 Arrowleaf Gewurztraminer ($20 PWS) were planted in 1986 from the classic Alsatian clone of France. A characteristic of this is that it ripens later, allowing for longer “hang time”, producing wines that have much more richness and flavour to them. Look for perfumed rose petal, lychee, peach and nectarine, honeysuckle with orange peel, green apple and citrus rind. The texture is rich, juicy orchard fruit flavour with honey, lychee and nutmeg spice. Round, elegant with a hint of sweetness balanced by crisp acidity. There is very little of the ‘07 left so grab it quickly.

The first time I had this wine was at proprietor Harry McWatters house in 1993 and I think it was the ’92 vintage. We had spicy chicken wings, washed down with the Gewurzt and it was a magical paring. The 2007 Sumac Ridge Private Reserve Gewurztraminer ($14-$16 PWS & GLS) shows once again why it is one of the top selling Gewurztraminer’s in North America. Loaded with aromas of intense orange rind, ripe grapefruit, nectarine, lychee and rose petal with green apple and candied ginger, the palate is soft and lush with nectarine, peach, honey and ginger with a crisp citrussy finish. Perfect with spicy foods.

The aromatic, floral-scented 2007 Carmen Gewurztraminer ($17 PWS) is sourced from the blended with 10% Sémillon for complexity. Loaded with aromas of spicy, perfumed lychee nut, nectarine, grapefruit, green apple with a crisp herbal edge and a hint of anise, the palate is all tropical and orchard fruit with a dry, crisp and fresh finish. This wine has good acidity, structure and balance.

An archetypal Gewurztraminer in every sense of the word, the 2006 Pfaffenheim Gewurztraminer ($20-$22 PWS & GLS) is a superb example of an Alsace Gewurztraminer. Boasting a beautiful gold color with a fruity aroma of peach, pineapple, grapefruit, passion fruit, lychee, orange blossoms and roses, the flavours on the palate are hedonistic with its heady tropical fruit and spice. Well balanced by a long finish, it is a ripe, full-bodied wine with a distinctly spicy character. Fantastic wine.

The 2007 Gehringer Schonburger/Gewurztraminer ($18.50 PWS) is a delicious, intensely fruit-forward wine, ripe with peach, nectarine, apricot, lychee, sweet lemon and rose petal. A real pleasure to inhale, the palate is elegant and fresh with lychee, spicy citrus, Fuji apple and white pepper spice. Soft, juicy but with good acidity, this is a great wine to serve with spicy Thai or Indian food.

Wild Goose makes some of the best Gewurztraminer in BC. Voted Best of Class at the 2008 Spring Wine Festival, the 2007 Wild Goose Gewurztraminer ($22 PWS) is a classic. Loaded with rich tropical fruit, rose petal, orange peel, lychee nut and nutmeg, this is a lush and very intensely aromatic wine. Fine acidity on the finish gives this wine perfect balance.

In Vino Veritas