Off the Map BC with Kelly Hayes

Hyder is the only undefended US border. (Photo: Kelly Hayes)
Hyder is the only undefended US border. (Photo: Kelly Hayes)

North To Alaska

by Kelly Hayes - Story: 31213
Aug 7, 2007 / 8:00 am

Tuesday, June 26 and we’ve had enough of the asphalt.

Ever since we left PG we’ve been riding asphalt due to the lack of trails or logging roads. We rode up Highway 16 and further north along highway 37 toward Stewart which is at the west southern tip of the Alaska border. Stewart is not only one of the most picturesque areas I’ve ever seen with its glaciers and waterfalls, but it also gets a lot of snow.

In fact, the townsfolk say Stewart was buried under 35 feet last winter. Much of the snow is still around and has kind of put a dent in our tour. Terry and I were planning on seeing this mammoth glacier called the Bear Glacier, but the road is closed because there’s too much snow in the mountains. We bought a post card instead. Stewart is also unique because it borders with a dead-end town called Hyder. I say dead end because you can’t get out. Hyder is also undefended, meaning there’s no border security. However, there is a Canadian customs agent that wills great you when leaving Hyder. Strange indeed.

I linked up with an American in Hyder named Chuck who runs a general store. He carries a gun and carries a heavy American accent. During the interview, he said the difference between Canadians and Americans is that we are more tolerant. Chuck also reminded me how Americans have the right to bear arms and that’s one of the reasons he carries a gun. Bears are the real reason. Although I have yet to see one up close, Chuck tells me they are plentiful, black and grizzly.

Worth noting is the Polaris snowmobile factory from Minnesota is in the area testing their new sleds for next year.

Not sure where we’re going now, but one thing is for sure, enough of the asphalt and time to hit the dirt again. We’ll work our way over to the Kootenays or maybe take in some of the Coast. That’s the beauty of being on the road is improvising. It’s always an adventure.



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