Creating a look for someone is like a puzzle. There are so many pieces that you must work into the equation to determine what exactly would work best for the individual. In the salon, we are often consulted on face shape and what style would best suit it. After that discussion, out come the pictures of celebrities that have the equivalent of a horse mane on their head. Now, this becomes a discussion about texture.
Fine hair remains to be one of the most technically challenging hair textures for stylists and salon guests to work with. More times then not, the hair is generally overloaded with heavy products that collapse volumous looks by mid-day. The haircut often becomes over texturized at the salon resulting in ‘whispy’ bits that hang at the ends. Today we look at fine hair, and how to respect its vulnerable properties.
As a rule of thumb before I begin to work on any hair I like to see how the hair is reacting. We are looking at how it is reacting with it’s current style, how much time it takes to look a certain way and how challenging it is to style in the morning. It is irrelevant if a certain style would ‘look best’ if the texture of hair will not support it.
The Condition - Let’s be real for a moment. Take a look at your hair in the mirror and feel the condition of the ends. Fine hair generally displays signs of abuse by splitting up the follicle of the hair, feeling brittle to the touch. It may also lack shine and appear dull.
Starting with the condition of fine hair is essential. My fine hair guests always shy away from conditioner for fear of making the hair too heavy- big mistake. On the market today we are fortunate that manufacturers have developed rinse-out conditioners that cater to fine texture. Kerastase Lait Volumintense uses white clay as an ingredient to reduce the heavy feeling. Apply a hazelnut size amount of rinse out conditioner to the mid-lengths and ends of your hair only.
Without the appropriate conditioning and care of the hair fibre, your hair will lack luster and fail to support any sort of volume. If you still aren’t convinced, use a daily leave in treatment to begin to rebuild the protein bonds of your hair.
The Shape - Despite what you are seeing in gossip magazines and what is the hottest look for fall, you must choose a haircut shape that works for fine textures. Generally, I suggest a style that is short to a mid-length bob. I say this, because fine hair generally never looks full enough to sustain longer shapes. It is crucial to always maintain a blunt perimeter line through the bottom of the cut and gently layer the interior of the haircut to create volume. Avoid haircuts that utilize aggressive texturizing techniques- unless you want a look that is very piecey through the ends.
When you dry your hair, pay special attention to where you are directing the air flow from your blow dryer. To maintain the health of your hair dry the roots first, your ends see enough abuse- take it easy on them!
The Products - If you love volume, mousse is your best friend. Pay attention to the properties of your mousse some use smoothing emollients intended for medium textures of hair, use a mousse that is specific to fine textures like L’Oreal Professionnel Texture Expert Expansion.
The L’Oreal Professionnel Texture Expert line uses a careful balance of conditioning agents and hold specific to hair type. This allows you the flexibility to use a wide array of products for different looks (hold, volume and texture) without the fear of weighing your hair down.
To finish your look, use an anti-humectant hairspray along with a very light mist of shine spray to reduce fly away ends. Avoid the use of heavy serum or pomades- they tend to be too heavy.
The Environment - The Okanagan is notoriously dry, making fine textures vulnerable. Protecting your hair with moisture locking leave in treatments and regular protein treatments in the salon will ensure that you combat the dry climate.
Fine texture can be a challenging hair type to work with, and being realistic on what you are able to achieve will solve most of the problems. My challenge to all you fine hair people out there: experiment with the condition of your hair…it will thank you in the ‘ends’.