In the world of wine making, New Zealand stands out as a relative newcomer. Vines were first planted around 1819 and although it has enjoyed a long history of wine making, it has only been since the late 1970s and early 1980's that New Zealand began making wine that received critical acclaim, first in New Zealand and later raising eyebrows in other countries.

New Zealand wines seemed to have unusual attributes that distinguished them from all others. The unique combination of their cool climate, relatively infertile soil types and astute wine making techniques, produced intense, crisp flavours. This is especially noticeable in the country's signature variety Sauvignon Blanc and a promising newcomer Pinot Noir.

Situated between latitudes 35° and 47° south, New Zealand is made up of two islands, 1700 km long and 240 km wide at it’s widest point. Here, in the “global wine belt”, New Zealand vineyards are the most southerly in the world but share latitudes similar to Italy and a climate more akin to Bordeaux and Burgundy, although maritime influences can lower temperatures. The country’s long and narrow shape provides a maritime climate where no vineyard is more than 75 miles from the ocean. Warmed by daytime sunlight and cooled by night sea breezes, New Zealand's vineyards are blessed with ideal growing conditions which are reflected in their wines.

So what wines are produced in New Zealand? There are a number of grape varieties grown in New Zealand but the largest planted grape varieties are Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir followed by Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Gris.

New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc is acclaimed throughout the world as the definitive benchmark style for the varietal with its lively, pungent flavours, which have astounded wine critics everywhere. International wine writer Oz Clarke summed up the impact of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc when he wrote, “No previous wine had shocked, thrilled, entranced the world before with such brash, unexpected flavours of gooseberries, passion fruit and lime, or crunchy green asparagus spears . . . an entirely new, brilliantly successful wine style that the rest of the world has been attempting to copy ever since”.

The grape has its roots in France and is best known as a single variety from the Loire district and the best examples are Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé. Sauvignon Blanc wines are generally dry and light- to medium-bodied with pronounced, distinctive, herbaceous characters from cooler sites, and gooseberry or tropical fruit characters when grown under warm conditions.

Pinot Noir is an ancient grape variety that has long been the backbone of Burgundian reds. It is a variety that does not naturally develop high levels of colour or tannin and as a result sometimes produces wines of light to medium body. Nevertheless, good Pinot Noir can have a mouth-feel that rivals heavier wines made from Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Their extremely rewarding taste sensations typically include fruit flavours that range from strawberry to cherry and plum, with mushroom and earthy characteristics.

Pinot Noir grows well in cool temperatures with low rainfall and performs with distinction in the Wellington region and most South Island regions. Cooler, high-altitude sites in Hawkes Bay have also found success with this temperamental grape but the wines from Martinborough and Central Otago have earned the highest international accolades and probably the loudest acclaim for Pinot Noir in New Zealand

Merlot does not perform well everywhere in New Zealand and the biggest viticultural challenge is to ripen it fully. It craves warmth, which is why hotter and sunnier sites regularly produce excellent, lush, blackcurrant and blackberry-flavoured Merlots. It is in New Zealand's warmer northern wine regions such as Northland, Hawkes Bay along with Waiheke Island in Auckland harbour which has contributed the most to New Zealand's reputation as a serious, world-class producer of Merlot. Wines from these warmer climate regions are full-bodied with lush, ripe berry flavours.

New Zealand Chardonnay is all about quality and diversity. The different regional conditions combined with the wine maker's skill and innovation means that Chardonnay in New Zealand consists of numerous, ever-evolving styles, capable of appealing to a wide range of palates. The enduring appeal of Chardonnay is that it is relatively easy to grow and lends itself to the production of many different styles of wine. A wide range of different wine making techniques can be applied, ensuring that all Chardonnays differ in flavour, which is very attractive from a wine drinker's point of view.

Plantings of Pinot Gris have spread rapidly throughout the country, with Marlborough and Canterbury being home to more than half the country’s total production. Here on the cooler south island, the climate is perfect for the early-ripening Pinot Gris, allowing it to develop the distinctively delicious tropical and orchard fruit-laden aromas and flavours. There is very little of this variety imported into BC. However, considering the growing importance of this grape in New Zealand, we can only hope that the provincial liquor monopoly will consider stocking more.

Weekend Wine Picks:

A great example of Pinot Noir with a little age on it, the 2002 Main Divide ‘Canterbury’ Pinot Noir ($37 PWS) shows what Pinot Noir is all about. Fragrant aromas of raspberry, cherry, plums, creamy vanilla scented toasty oak with freshly picked mushrooms, roast game and wood smoke, mixed with cherries, tamarillo, dark chocolate and spice. The texture on the palate is classic Pinot Noir with silky smooth fruit character, lush acidity and firm tannins. It has that refined elegance that characterizes many of the best Pinot’s grown around the world.

The 2004 Sacred Hill ‘Whitecliff’ Riesling ($20 PWS) is produced from fruit sourced from the Awatere and Wairau valleys of the Marlborough region on the south island. This is a mouth-watering Riesling displaying fresh, clean aromas of grapefruit, lemon zest, citrus blossom, jasmine with white peach, green apple, nectarine and hints of lime. The palate is intense, bursting with clean, ripe, tropical fruit characters of pineapple, banana and citrus blossom, blending into a lingering citrus finish. A beautifully balanced finish with great richness and intensity, this is sealed with a screw cap for freshness.

A fantastic example of great New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, the 2007 Jackson Estate Sauvignon Blanc ($24.90 PWS) is loaded with crunchy gooseberry, kiwi, grapefruit, pineapple, melon, and green apple. The palate is bracing with fresh crisp tropical and orchard fruit flavours, finishing with refreshingly crisp acidity. There are none of the characteristic vegetal aromas and flavours so often associated with New Zealand Sauv Blanc’s.

Rarely does Chardonnay excite me but the 2005 Stoneleigh Chardonnay ($18-$20 PWS & GLS) does just that. Straw-gold in colour with vibrant aromas of grapefruit, white peach, nectarine, and toast, this barrel-fermented wonder has excellent weight on the palate. The texture is slightly creamy with citrus fruit flavours, balance by a crisp backbone of refreshing acidity.

The 2007 Stoneleigh Pinot Noir ($22-$25 PWS & GLS) is a Pinophiles delight. This 100% French oak barrel-fermented marvel is Burgundy in New Zealand with its deep ruby red colour, fragrant aroma of black cherry, raspberry, plum, and spicy toasted oak. The palate is ripe with dark, red berry fruit flavours, toast, cocoa, soft and supple with lingering fruit sweetness balanced by fine integrated tannins.

This fresh and ripe wine is from New Zealand's Bordeaux equivalent, Hawkes Bay. The 2007 Oyster Bay Merlot ($18 GLS) is all about elegance and the intensity of gloriously ripe fruit with its dark cherry colour, black cherry jam, cassis, chocolate pudding, vanilla, and cedar box. The palate is peppery and spicy, with flavours of dark fruit, and chocolate laced with clove, forest floor, mushroom and saddle leather. There is a wonderful burst of richness on the finish with spice, soft acidity and medium tannins and the touch of subtle oak giving softness and extra warmth to the length of the wine.

In Vino Veritas