Of all the wine regions of the world, none has benefited from such a string of successful vintages as the Southern Rhone valley. With the exception of the disastrous 2002 vintage, this marvellous viticultural area has enjoyed an exceptional run of excellent to outstanding vintages from 1998 to 2006 with 2007 looking to be another blockbuster vintage.

This vast, ancient region, which stretches from the town of Montélimar south to Avignon, produces some of the most spectacular wines in the world, some meant for immediate enjoyment, others for long term cellaring. It is one of the largest AOC appellations in France, in terms of surface area and production levels, second only to Bordeaux.

Viticulture started in the Rhone around 125 BC with the arrival of the Romans. To supplement the soldier’s wages, they were partially paid with wine and when they retired, they were given land for agriculture. Grape growing and the production of wine was a natural consequence of Roman conquests.

The region has enjoyed a resurgence in quality and reputation over the last decade because of vastly improved viticultural and vinification techniques. The wines are usually blended, with each grape variety contributing its own individual characteristics. Compared to the other great wine producing areas of France such as Bordeaux and Burgundy, the wines produced are relatively inexpensive.

Grenache, the main grape of the area for red wines, often forms the basis of the wines, giving fruitiness, warmth and body. Syrah and Mourvèdre add spice, colour and strength to the wine, allowing it to age well.

Some are ready to drink soon after bottling, displaying a shiny ruby red/purple colour with aromas of warm blackberry and cherry fruits, scents of dried herbs such as lavender, juniper, bay leaf, fennel, rosemary, sage and thyme that are often used in the cooking. The palate is in most cases ripe with an almost sweet black fruit character with dried herbs and a not unattractive earthiness, a combination of which is usually called garrigue. The better examples often offer a supple, velvety texture on the palate along with a spicy, peppery kick on the finish.

White wines also tend to be the result of blending several grapes, such as Bourboulenc, Grenache white, Roussanne, Marsanne, Clairette and sometimes Viognier. These varieties make aromatic, full-bodied wines, some of which can age very well.

This week we take a look at a few wines from different areas within this vast region.

Located north of Orange, on the east bank of the Rhône River in the heart of the Rhône Valley, is the small appellation of Coteaux-du-Tricastin. A relatively new wine region, with production only starting in the last 50 years or so, the acreage is roughly the size of the Okanagan valley, about 6500 acres.

The 2006 Chapoutier La Ciboise Coteaux-du-Tricastin Rouge ($16.90), a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, is full of cassis/cherry/blackberry fruit aromas with hints of pepper, licorice, chocolate and baked earth. Soft, round and supple on the palate with an elegant scent of rose petals, there is a refreshing burst of red and black fruit on the juicy/fleshy long finish. A great discovery for its flavour and character, a well-balanced wine at this price point, this wine is ready to enjoy now through 2008.

The Cotes Du Ventoux is a small region within the Vaucluse département, east of Avignon. Situated at the base of the massive Mont Ventoux, the wines produced in this region tend to be a little lighter and fruitier than their Cotes du Rhones cousins. They have an appealing blackberry fruit, with a lively flavour and are extremely easy to consume. The elevation of the vineyards and the cooler climate mean that these wines are less heady and rich in alcohol and are at their best within two years of the harvest.

One of the perennial BC favourites in the French category, the 2006 La Vieille Ferme Côtes Du Ventoux ($15.90 PWS & GLS) is a beautiful blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Cinsault. The black raspberry, black cherry, cassis, strawberry fruit aromas are literally bursting out of the glass with scents of licorice, pepper and herbs. The palate is soft and round with vibrant red and black fruit flavours followed by wonderfully balanced and supple acidity and tannins. A great example of an easy-to-enjoy Ventoux and excellent to serve with casual dining.

The best-known appellation in the Rhone Valley is the massive Côtes du Rhône, which covers over 160 communes (villages) of the southern Rhone. This huge area (170, 000 acres) makes up 90% of the entire production of the region with 95% of that being red wine. The wines made in the communes offer a great variety of styles and are of an extremely high quality.

The 2005 Domaine “La Garrique” Cuvee Romaine Cotes Du Rhone ($22.90 PWS & GLS) is one of the oldest in the region and is a fabulous example of what high quality Cotes du Rhône can be like. Produced primarily from declassified Vacqueyras vines, this blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre comes from the estate's 60-90 year old head-pruned vines. Incredibly dense with a ruby/purple colour, the intense black raspberry, cherry, cassis and kirsch liqueur-like fruit, is followed by gorgeous aromas of licorice, smoke, incense, leather and a hint of new oak. The texture on the palate is pure hedonism with its full-bodied character of black and red fruit, herbs, incense, and spice. This wine literally tastes more lie a Vacqueyras ($30 per bottle) than a Cotes du Rhone. The finish is full-bodied, and opulent with soft, velvety acidity and very firm tannins, which is in keeping with this top-notch vintage. Cellar and drink this marvellous wine over the next decade.

The 2006 Saint Cosme Cotes-du-Rhone ($25.90 PWS) is an intense, super-concentrated Cotes du Rhone, which has seen no oak at all but is still profoundly complex. This is a 100% unfiltered Syrah, showcasing a vibrant purple-red colour, aromas of super-ripe blackberry, cassis and raspberry with violets/roses/lilacs and sweet black licorice. The palate is full-bodied with layers upon layers of black fruit flavours, silky tannins and a concentration that puts this humble Cotes du Rhone way above its status. The creamy texture reveals a lush, velvety intensity with a long finish making this an irresistible wine to enjoy now but will also age well for 3-6 years.

Domaine de la Janasse has quickly become one of the superstar estates of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. A classic Rhone blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan and Cinsault, the 2005 Domaine de la Janasse Cotes-du-Rhone ($26.90 PWS) is a huge wine for the price. Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins. This is not a fruit bomb but an elegant, refined wine. Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer power of it but will reward with 3-5 years of cellaring.

I would be remiss if I did not mention the most famous of Rhone wines, Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The area around Orange and Avignon, is home to this spectacular wine, by far the most well known of all the southern Rhone wines. The area takes its name, which means 'Pope’s new castle', from the relocation of the papal court from Rome to Avignon in the 14th century. The wines are unique in that up to 13 grape varieties can be used although most of the time just Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre are used. Another of the secrets of this outstanding area is the amazingly stony ground, the large round stones, called “les cailloux” that act as heat storage, soaking up the Provençal sunshine during the day and releasing the heat at night, long after sunset.

A fabulous wine at a fabulous price, the 2003 Lesec Châteauneuf-du-Pape “Marquis” ($59.95 PWS) is a blend of 95% Grenache and 5% Mourvèdre. A dense, concentrated wine, the Marquis is traditionally-styled with its sweet, lush, black raspberry fruit, new saddle leather, raspberries, licorice, fruitcake, smoked game, tobacco leaf, cigar box and Provencal herbs.  Full-bodied and powerful with soft acidity and firm yet supple tannins, this wine could do with another1-2 years of cellaring and should last for 5-10 years.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin