One of the greatest things about living in the Okanagan Valley is the ability to just pack up, head off and see a few wineries. And that is just what we did for our wedding anniversary last Monday. My wife and companion for the past 29 glorious years (Patti, although I call her Patricia when she ‘gets my goat’) grabbed our coffees and CD’s and headed off to the south Okanagan for a visit to one of the spectacular unsung, hidden treasures, Golden Mile Cellars.

Originally founded in 1998 by Peter and Helga Serwo, two veteran grape growers in the south Okanagan, the winery was purchased by Pam and Mick Luckhurst in 2004 after moving from Vancouver Island, looking for a better way of life. They had previously worked in the lumber industry, owned a building supply business and were involved in property development in British Columbia and Alberta.

Realizing that they had bitten off quite a mouthful and that their idea of a laid-back Okanagan lifestyle was not going to happen, they began to focus their efforts on learning the business. As their press release states, “I’m not the type of guy who likes to sit around,” says Mick. “It just isn’t me. I came to the wine business with the same skills that I had been successful with all my life, a strong work ethic and determination.”

While Mick started learning about viticulture, Pam oversaw the wine shop and business administration. A background in banking, bookkeeping and managing different aspects of their previous businesses along with a very strong customer service ethic came in handy. However, as Pam states about her wine knowledge, “it was basic, we drank what we thought we liked and never veered from it.” But she was excited about the wine business and jumped into her role of heading up the wine shop, overseeing customer service, sales and administration.

For Mick, the steep viticultural learning curve was a huge challenge. He wisely sought out the best advice possible and turned to one of the best grape growers in BC, Dick Cleave. Cleave and his partner Robert Goltz farm over 900 acres in the Okanagan and Similkameen valleys and are arguably the most knowledgeable viticulturists in the region. Through Cleave, Mick came to understand the unique aspects of his vineyard sites.

One skill that neither Pam nor Mick had was turning their grapes into wine. They contacted Lawrence Herder, a California-trained winemaker who had relocated to the Okanagan Valley to help them out with the ’03 and ’04 vintages.

In late 2004, the Luckhursts discovered Okanagan-born and raised winemaker, Michael Bartier, who had previous worked at See Ya Later Ranch, Stag’s Hollow and Township 7. Michael earned his reputation as a talented winemaker with two Wine Access magazine’s Best Canadian Chardonnay awards, one for the 2000 Hawthorne Mountain Gold Label Chardonnay and the other for the 2002 Township 7 Chardonnay. The three of them hit it off right away and Michael’s first wines were the 2005 harvest.

The winery releases wines under three distinctive labels: Road 13, which are wines blended from different varietals, Golden Mile varietals and Black Arts, a series of limited production wines in painted bottles.

While we were there, Pam and Michael took us through the winery and treated us to some tank samples of the new vintages. If you are ever asked if you would like to try a tank sample, do not hesitate, just say yes.

We started with the 2007 Road 13 white. This blend of mainly Ehrenfelser and Sauvignon Blanc is loaded with fresh tropical and orchard fruit aromas and flavours, perfectly balanced by the racy, crisp acidity. This wine has summer patio fun written all over it. Only 1500 cases of this were produced so grab some when it is released.

Sourced from the oldest Chenin Blanc vines in BC (planted in 1968) and possible the oldest vinifera vines in BC, the 2007 Chenin Blanc is a spectacular wine showcasing buckets of ripe tropical fruit and honeysuckle with a lush, unctuous texture on the palate. The finish lingers with crisp, vibrant acidity. Could be the best from BC!

We then moved onto the Riesling tank and were shocked at the lively, refreshing fruit characteristics in 2007 Riesling. Huge flavours of green apple, pear, grapefruit and pineapple with hints of flinty mineral and orange rind. This wine is blended with 15% Orange Muscat hence the slight orange character.

Quite possible the best Viognier from BC so far, the 2007 Viognier is a small production of 350 cases. This wine displays lots of rich, ripe peach, pear, mango, grapefruit and honey with hints of apple, apricot, ginger and honeysuckle. The texture on the palate is rich and unctuous with concentrated orchard fruit, vanilla, citrus, honey and melon. The finish is long and spicy with crisp, vibrant acidity. It will probably not be available at most retail shops, just at the winery. Give them a call to secure an allocation.

The 2006 reds are in tank and are almost ready to bottle. We started with the 2006 Cabernet Franc. A blockbuster red, loaded with intense blackberry and cassis with vanilla, licorice, chocolate and roasted coffee, we would like to see this as a single variety but Michael is a blending genius so the wine will be blended into the winery’s 2006 Fifth Element.

The same can be said of the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon. Huge aromas and flavours of mocha and chocolate along with cassis, blackberry and raspberry were evident in this colossal monster of a red. The smooth acidity and ultra firm tannins will add an extra dimension to the ’06 Fifth Element.

The 2007 Syrah is spectacular. Loaded to the brim with intense black fruit aromas and flavours, the texture on the palate is super concentrated with soft, lush acidity, and very firm tannins. This wine was aging in a large oak barrel that was put together by Cal Craik at Okanagan Barrel Works in Oliver.

Now approaching their fifth vintage, the wines produced are being highly sought after by those in the know but the winery is still under the radar. However, Pam, Mick and Michael all agree that under their guidance the winery is still in its formative years. “This is a process. We are still learning who we are and what we want Golden Mile Cellars to stand for,” says Pam. “The past few years have had us spending a lot of time getting involved in the community, and gauging feedback from our own team, our sales agents, our neighbours and our customers. We have learned,” she continues. “Golden Mile Cellars is set on defining the style of Okanagan Valley wines. Our Appellation Appreciation club is growing, and we have some exciting plans on the horizon,” she hints. “It is an exciting time to be involved in the industry.”

The winery is located off Hwy 97 between Oliver and Osoyoos. Follow Hwy 97 6 kilometres south of Oliver and turn west on Road 13. Phone number is 250-498-8330 or email at winery@goldenmilecellars.com.

Weekend Wine Picks:

Here is a selection of their wines that are currently on the market. These are all fantastic wines that will give decadent pleasure when you serve them to your company. Prices will vary from store to store.

2006 Black Arts Syrah

2006 Black Arts Pinot Noir

2005 Fifth Element

2006 Syrah

2006 Pinot Noir

2006 Chardonnay