Of all the grape varieties used in the product of wine, one of the most misunderstood and under-rated is Riesling. Long considered one of the 'noble' grape varieties, it produces wines of elegance and sophistication that can run the gamut from bone dry to very sweet but are usually made in dry or semi-dry styles. With its delicious tropical and orchard fruit flavours of grapefruit, peach, pear, apple and lime, Riesling complements all types of foods and offers a wide range of characteristics, from easy-drinking fruity summer wines, to liquid conundrums that assault the palate with their explosion of hedonistic texture.

Certain wine-producing regions have demonstrated the ability to produce top-notch Riesling. Without a doubt, the finest Rieslings come from Germany, where, like BC, they are particularly suited to the cooler climate (Riesling vines are particularly hard-wooded and are tolerant of cold weather). The best of these come from the Mosel-Saar-Ruwer or Mosel for short. Here the wines are traditionally low in alcohol (7.5-9.5%) and have a perfect balance between acidity, freshness of flavour and aromatic richness. Some of these wines can age better than any other white wine and will develop astounding complexity over time without losing the vivaciousness that makes them so appealing in their youth. A way word of caution, though. Like any major purchase, a little due diligence goes a long way. Do your research on any wines you are designating for your cellar and long-term storage.

After Germany, Alsace is the next best source of great Riesling, particularly in those vineyard sites that have been designated Grand Cru. This is the most Germanic region of France and it is the only region in France where the Riesling grape is permitted. Here the variety makes an ideal aperitif and it tends to be drier, more powerful and have a higher alcohol level (often 12%) compared with its German counterpart. Dry, refined and delicately fruity, the aromas are elegant and refined with sometimes mineral or floral notes and can have all the characteristics of great white Burgundies with a dose of crisp acid, giving it good ageing potential. They are a perfect match with shellfish appetizers, cured meats and heavy cuisines of all types.

BC Riesling is probably best known for the Icewine that is produced from it. However, there is a whole different world of Riesling available to the consumer all you have to do is look. The aromas and flavours of BC Riesling are stunning to say the least and because this variety is a late ripener and one of the last varieties to be picked, it shows very well in BC and especially around the Kelowna area. One of the finest I’ve had is from the former Pinot Reach winery, now Tantalus. I recently had the chance to sample a selection of the Rieslings from this vineyard dating from 1994, ’96, ’97, ’99 and 2000 and to say that BC Rieslings do not age well this proves that myth wrong.

Australia is the country more known for its Shiraz but the Rieslings from Australia are one of a kind. They are typically dry and light bodied with refreshing acidity. Always un-wooded, some of the best Australian Riesling are produced in the cool climate Clare and Eden Valleys and in Coonawarra were they make wines that are intensely aromatic with citrus and tropical fruit and a palate that is bone dry with crisp acidity. They display the characteristics of the grape that we expect: the perfume, the complexity and the zestiness but its dryness makes it a superior match to food.

So join the ABC crowd (Anything But Chardonnay) and discover what Riesling holds for you. It’s the perfect wine, whether it is winter or summer, just right to enjoy with family and friends. Better still, if it has a screw cap or Stelvin closure, it will keep the wine fresh and lively. But that’s another story.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin

Weekend Riesling Picks:

A great easy-drinking style of Riesling, the 2006 Bishop of Riesling ($12-$14 PWS & GLS) is the perfect introduction wine to the pleasures of German Riesling. This is a 100% Riesling from the Bernkastel District, considered the Mosel's premier growing site and is named in homage to the man who made the Mosel synonymous with the world's finest Riesling, Clemens Wenzelaus von Wettin, Archbishop of Trier from 1768-1794. Crisp and clean with fresh aromas and flavours of apple, peach, poached pear, citrus and honey with a hint of a slate minerality. A perfect wine to pair with light seafood, chicken, veal or spicy dishes.

One of the better examples of BC Riesling, the 2006 Golden Mile Riesling ($19 PWS) is blended with 15% Orange Muscat for an aromatic lift but it really does not need it. Fermented bone-dry with bracing acidity, this wine and a few others like it are an anomaly in BC Rieslings with most of them being on the sweeter side with light acidity. This one however is loaded with fresh Granny Smith apple, white peach, pear, grapefruit, pineapple and a slate-minerality with an abundance of citrussy lemon-lime, and orange rind. The palate is full of juicy tropical and orchard fruit with vibrant, thirst-quenching acidity on the full, intense finish. Absolutely delicious.

Voted as ‘Best of Class’ at the 2008 Okanagan Spring Wine Festival, the 2007 Wild Goose ‘God’s Mountain’ Riesling ($22 PWS) is bursting with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit. Look for fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple and lime with hints of mineral, apricot, nectarine, clover and honey. The super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling.

The 2007 Tantalus Riesling ($27 PWS) is the third release from the former Pinot Reach winery. A vibrant, refreshing Riesling, quite reminiscent of the lively Clare Valley Rieslings, this wine is full of juicy peach, red apple and grapefruit with hints of mineral, honey and petrol. A classic Riesling in every sense of the word, this is one of the best BC Rieslings on the market. Will definitely benefit with cellaring for up to 10+ years.

Gehringer Brothers winemaker and co-owner Walter Gehringer has crafted a fantastic wine with the 2006 Gehringer Brothers Classic Riesling ($15-$17 PWS & GLS). This has everything that a delicious Riesling should have. Packed with concentrated aromas of fresh apple, nectarine, peach, apricot, grapefruit, apple and spiced honey, the wine is fermented off dry to balance the crisp acidity. Perfect with spicy grilled Thai prawns.

The 2006 Prospect Winery ‘Larch Tree Hill’ Riesling ($20 PWS) has aromas of ripe peaches, pears, crisp green apple and fresh lime with fresh grapefruit, pineapple and sweet mango. The palate is full of juicy orchard fruit with a some sweetness from the residual sugars but it is nicely balanced by the mouth-watering acidity giving this crisp and fruity wine a delicious finish.

A great example of how well Riesling can age, the 2003 Thorn-Clarke Eden Valley Riesling ($20 PWS) is a crisp, zesty effort revealing a pale straw colour with a youthful Riesling character that is starting to evolve into the classic "petrol" character that is typical of the variety. Look for a full, fresh and tart wine with aromas and flavours of green apple, orange zest, fresh lime, sweet lemon, white peach, pineapple and pear supported by crisp lime-like acidity.

PWS means Private Wine Store and GLS means Government Liquor Store