While most consumers may recognize the wine regions of Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto and the wines produced there, Chianti, Barolo and Valpolicella, the areas of central and southern Italy are largely overlooked. From Lazio and Umbria to the island of Sicily, many of the wines from these areas stand up in comparison to other regions, Italian or otherwise.

However, they are not the most popular perhaps in part because most are produced from indigenous grapes, shunning the modern infatuation with "international" grapes such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet, preferring instead to produce wines in a more traditional style, reflecting their Italian heritage. In addition, while each of these areas may be using the same variety, the regions are so climate-specific that the wine produced will have their own distinctive characteristics.

Although many people may not recognize Lazio or Latium as it is also called, they will know its capital, Rome. Sometimes referred to the as the “Rodney Dangerfield” of wine regions, in that it gets no respect, Lazio is located directly south of Tuscany, in the central western part of Italy on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It devotes 300,000 acres to grapevines, ranking it 7th amongst the 20 Italian regions and is an area well known for the production of white wine, specifically Frascati, a crisp, dry white produced from Trebbiano, Greco and Malvasia. However, the reds that come from this region are superb, full of vitality and flavour.

One of Italy's smallest regions, Umbria lies in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour, Tuscany. Situated inland from Lazio and south of Tuscany, Umbria is a mostly mountainous and hilly region, well known for its remarkable white wine, Orvieto. The current winemaking in Umbria has been facing great changes in recent years with most producers in the region abandoning the practise of bulk wine production in favour of an improved quality.

Directly across from Lazio is the province of Abruzzo. In a nation of 20 different wine regions, Abruzzo offers wine drinkers a rare and refreshing simplicity. Here, winemakers offer consumer’s wines produced from Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Trebbiano. Not to be confused with the town of the same name in Tuscany, Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape is capable of producing wines of great distinction as it provides a wide variety of styles from light, refreshing reds and rosés to full bodied, robust wines of excellent character that have the potential for cellaring.

South of Abruzzo is the much-overlooked region of Molise. For a long time an extension of Abruzzo, Molise is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy, about 90% hills and mountains. This hilly terrain and the sunny climate combine to create ideal conditions for the production of wine. The region has about 19,000 acres planted to grapevines, ranking it 18th amongst the 20 Italian regions and has, in the past decade, come into its own, producing great value wines with intensity and concentration with the ability to age.

Puglia or “Apulia” may be the best-known region in the South, gaining attention, in particular, for its fruity Primitivo, the Grandfather of California’s Zinfandel. However, Negroamaro is another variety that is raising eyebrows. These wines are dark and rich in colour, with powerful aromas of black cherry, anise, plum jam, hay and blackberry followed by hints of leather, earth, cinnamon and vanilla.

Sicily is the largest island in Mediterranean and if it were a nation, it would rank sixth in the world wine production! Sicily has more vineyards than any of the other Italian regions competing with Apulia for first place as the largest wine producer due to its rich soil and dry climate. However, it has suffered with the reputation of being a producer and supplier of bulk wine to the rest of Italy and Europe. Now there is attention being placed on growing the well-known international grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah.

These regions are producing great wines that are typical of a warmer, sunnier region where the tendency is to be ripe and robust. Yet many share the Italian reputation of sturdy structure and zippy acidity that make them the perfect accompaniment with food. They are the perfect wines to enjoy with the backyard B-B-Q.

Weekend Wine Picks:

A steal of a deal, the 2001 Velletri Riserva ($18.50 GLS) from Lazio (Latium) is stunning. Produced from the native Cesanese (45%), Montepulciano (25%) and Merlot (30%), this is a fantastic wine chock full of characteristic aromas of sweet black cherries, black raspberries, figs, prunes, licorice, roasted meat, and baked earth with cedar and dried bay leaves. The palate is full and lush with flavours of creamy black cherry, raspberry-jam, chocolate pudding, leather, vanilla and spice. Serve with your favourite Italian meal, hopefully a big piece of something rich and flavourful. An undiscovered treasure, this is one of the best Italian reds on the market.

From the region of Molise, the 2002 Tor Del Colle Riserva ($15.90 PWS) is made from 100% Montepulciano. Look for aromas of rich black cherry, raspberries, strawberries, ripe plums, licorice, roasted game, chocolate, and cigar leaf and chocolate pudding. It is a full-bodied wine with ripe cherry fruit, a full-bodied palate, soft acidity and a supple tannic finish. Fantastic.

One of the driest wines I have tasted, the 2004 Antinori Campogrande Orvieto ($17.50 PWS) from the town of Orvieto in Umbria has everything you would want in a great tasting Italian white. Loads of fresh green apple, white peach, zingy citrus fruit, lime, pear, a bit of slate-minerality with a hint of nuttiness, the palate is crisp, clean with citrussy fruit and mouth-puckering acidity that begs for the correct food to tame it. A perfect wine to serve with pan-fried calamari with garlic aioli or even a Caesar salad.

From the east coast of Italy in Abruzzo, the 2006 Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D’Abruzzo ($12.90 PWS) is a dark ruby red colour with rich, spicy black cherry, raspberry, black plum, chocolate, and tobacco leaf followed by smoke, prune, licorice and graphite. The spicy oak flavour dominates on the palate but blows off to reveal tasty chocolate and raspberry flavours. The palate is velvety with soft acidity and ample but approachable tannins that hint at possible aging potential.

Produced in the southern end of Italy, on the ‘heel of the boot’, the 2006 Mezzomondo Negroamaro ($11.90 PWS & GLS) is a wine that over delivers for the price. This hot southern region used to produce high-alcohol wines with an over-ripe character of stewed prunes but modern winemaking methods have resulted in wines with good balance and intense flavours. This one is full of juicy black cherry and blackberry aromas with violets, roses, plum/raspberry, toasty oak and chocolate. Rich, soft and round with firm acidity and tannins, this is the quintessential Italian bargain wine. Smashing wine, especially with pasta or pizza.

The 2006 Montalto Nero D’Avola-Cabernet ($12.90 PWS) is a great valued red from Sicily. Full of ripe blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, and red plum jam-like aromas with subtle hints of leather, smoke, tobacco leaf, cocoa, and dried herbs. The palate is medium bodied with loads of juicy black fruit, herbs and spice followed by soft acidity and velvety yet firm tannins. An excellent wine for the price.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin