Spanish wines are red-hot. In the fiscal year 2006/2007 (last stats available), Spain has seen an incredible growth in the amount of wine sold, with an increase of over 17%. Australia, the darling of BC wine drinkers for 5-6 years now, only managed an increase of 12% (LDB Annual Report 2006/2007). Could the love affair with sweet, jammy wine be over? Are consumers looking for something more in their wines?

A world class producer of wine, Spain is the largest wine-growing region in the world, covering a surface area in excess of 2.9 million acres compared to France’s 222,000 acres. 15.5% of the world's vineyards are in Spain. In spite of this, the country is the third largest producer of wine in the world, the two largest being France and Italy.

Amongst wine-producing countries, Spain has a history that is hard to compete with. Dating back to the Phoenicians, the Greeks and the Romans, vines have been cultivated and wine has been made in Spain for over 3000 years. The arrival of the non-drinking Moors in the eighth century A.D. put a damper on the wine trade that lasted 700 years.

The Romans, in their zeal to conquer the world, contributed to the wine culture by introducing vines during their occupation. The need to supply the vast Roman Empire and its legions with wine played an important part in building up Spain’s wine trade.

It owes a great deal of its legacy to Phylloxera, which caused extensive damage to the French vineyards in 19th century and triggered a massive exodus of French winemakers into Spain. They brought with them wine making techniques that helped spark the first great wine boom in Spanish history.

Spain's wine industry took steps towards standardization and modernization in the 1920s and 30s, but the Spanish Civil War left vineyards in a shambles and World War II destroyed any export market. The industry began to recover in the post-war era of the 50s and 60s.

The transformation of the image and quality of Spanish wines during the last quarter of the 20th century has been truly remarkable. During this period, a group of hard-working pioneers began to introduce and apply new viticulture and viniculture techniques that were being used elsewhere. A major force behind the revolution in Spanish wine, this new generation of Spanish winemakers were educated in countries other than Spain such as France and at the University of California at Davis. This resulted in new ideas being brought back to Spain and a willingness to try new styles of wine and not to be restricted to “making your father's Rioja.”

These young, new winemakers with innovative ideas and an influx of investment money spurred growth in the traditional regions such as Rioja and Ribera del Duero but also in the smaller, less well-known regions. The recent buzz on the Spanish wine scene has come from places such as Navarra, Castilla Y Leon, Jumilla, Cataluña, and Yecla. Rioja is also becoming more innovative by changing its practice of long ageing in American oak in favour of longer maceration of the grape and a shorter aging in the softer, more subtle French oak.

This week we take a look at a few of the spectacular Spanish wines currently on the market.

Over in the northeast corner of Spain, on the Spanish-French border, sits the province of Aragon and the sub-region of Calatayud. A long-time producer of bulk export wine, the area has seen an infusion of investment money and the single-minded focus of wine importers in search of hidden treasures. Rated 90/100 points by the Wine Advocate, the 2005 Las Rocas ‘Old Vine’ Garnacha ($16-18 PWS & GLS) is produced from 70-100 year old Grenache vines, and is one of the finest red wine values in on the market. Moreover, at under $20 a bottle, it is a steal. Rich deep purple colour with an approachable nose of sweet black cherry liqueur, raspberries and black pepper mixed with sweet melted licorice, roses and rich loamy earth. Full-bodied, amazingly elegant with a luxurious texture, soft acidity and firm tannins, this is a wine for enjoying over the next 1-3 years.

The Jumilla region encompasses a large area in the province of Murcia and Albacete in south-eastern Spain. One of the best-value wine regions in Spain, it is a rugged country, where the vineyards grow on a high plateau surrounded by mountains. The 2005 Mad Dogs and Englishman ($14.99 GLS) is made from Monastrell or Mourvèdre as it is called in France, along with 20% barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Shiraz. The wine is full of ripe black plums, black cherries, blackberries and ripe raspberries with chocolate, licorice and vanilla on the nose. Soft acidity and firm tannins enrich the round flavours of juicy plum, berries and cherries.

While Spain is not really known as a producer of Sauvignon Blanc, they do have the potential to turn out superb examples and the 2006 Penascal Sauvignon Blanc ($14.90) is just such an example. Produced in the province of Castilla Y Leon, this is a surprisingly fresh wine with ripe lemon-lime, grapefruit, pineapple, melon and grass aromas and flavours. Crisp and clean on the finish with succulent, mouth-watering acidity that begs for boiled prawns with garlic aioli. A fine introduction to Spanish Sauvignon Blanc without any of the aggressive, green vegetal characteristics some Sauvignon would have. Clean and very refreshing.

The 2006 Espelt Sauló Garnacha-Cariñena ($15-$17 PWS & GLS) is a blend of 60% Garnacha and 40% Carineña. This wine comes from the Empordà region that lies just south of the French border on the Mediterranean coast. A super-intense wine needing at least three hours of decanting to allow it to open up, this wine is loaded to the brim with concentrated blackberry and cassis, with layers of anise, smoke, leather, tobacco leaf, and hints of mushroom.

The 2001 Pergolas ‘Old Vine’ Tempranillo ($11-$13 PWS & GLS) is a great example of delicious wine that doesn’t cost an arm and a leg. Produced from 40 year old Tempranillo vines in the region of Valdepeñas, this wine has a lot of punch for the buck. Dark-ruby in colour with tawny-reddish hints on the rim, the aromas are of sweet cherries and vanilla over a faint scent of fresh butter. Tart-cherry fruit flavours are surprisingly fresh for a five-year-old with a dose of aromatic oak in the background that does not dominate. A solid red for everyday or weekend consumption. Great value!!!

Yecla is a wine region on the East Mediterranean coast of Spain, which is gaining a reputation as a source of some good value, clean, fruity wines. This is a change from the region's output in the past, which was typical high alcohol, oxidized wines. This had much to do with the arid climate and production habits that were anchored in the past. However, as with other regions, a new generation of winemakers are at the forefront and are producing some amazing wines. One such winery is Bodegas Castaño. The 2006 Monastrell ($12-$14 PWS & GLS) is also produced from Monastrell or Mourvèdre and this is one juicy little wine brimming with a bright, fresh raspberry aroma and thick, chewy cherry flavours on the palate. Well structured with supple, integrated tannins, it is a wine to match with simple, bistro-style fare but has enough body to hold up to hearty dishes including beef, game, and strong cheeses. Superb.

So, if you are looking for something different to serve this weekend, check out the wines of Spain. You will not be disappointed.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin