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Jaisalmer - the name alone evokes images of fierce maharaji atop trumpeting war elephants, sabres clashing in battles of a bygone era.
The “Golden City” emerged from the shifting sands of the Thar Desert like a mystic oasis shimmering in desert moonlight. Arriving late in the evening, our first impression was one of desolate isolation and stillness.
Our spirits lifted as we drove a short way out of town and were welcomed into the opulent hospitality of the Suryagarh Resort. Truly a spectacular hotel, built to enhance the purity of the region’s architectural past with all the possible accoutrements of today's expected amenities. An amazing Indian buffet was served with offerings from all culinary regions of India. We retired to the upper levels of the open escarpment of the courtyard and were treated to an elegant rendition of ancient Indian dance and expert swordplay. The following morning we awoke to the eerily haunting melody of the Morning Prayer being sung by one of the local village women. The hotel is acoustically built so that this daily tradition is heard in every corner of the vast building.
Our local guide began our day with a tour of the magnificent Jaisalmar Fort. This fort still shelters the local population within her centuries old walls and is referred to as India’s only true “living” fort. Located atop an escarpment high above the desert floor, the fort was hewn out of the local sandstone and literally shines in a golden light during the sunrise hours. Located within her walls are many beautifully preserved havelis which are the mansions of the local wealthy families as well as some of the intricately carved temples of the Jain religion. Her narrow streets and alleys teem with local merchants and their shops, all aggressively competing for your valued tourist dollar. In and amongst the masses you skirt the local dogs as well as the odd sacred cow. The Royal Palace revealed her former splendour within the walls of the queen’s quarters and shadowed corners of the King’s Hall.
We return to the Suryagarh after an exhausting day sightseeing and endless haggling over purchases. We had arranged for a camel safari and tented dinner and show later that evening. Our gracious hosts surprised us with a gift of local riding “saris” for the evening. Riding a camel had always been on my “bucket list” and yet I had to admit that I approached my chosen steed with some trepidation. The regal animal glared back at me with a curled lip and disdainful disposition. I gingerly boarded the kneeling beast with encouragement from my assigned camel driver and whooped in surprise as the incongruous shifting balance of the rising animal threw me forward, backward and upward in one fell swoop! Regaining something of my composure I turned to watch this same ridiculous spectacle being repeated by all the awkward tourists - all to the grinning delight of the local guides! Glad our discomfiture can be a source of amusement!!
Jaisalmer - the Golden City
The following trek through the desert landscape and ensuing desert feast and dinner show can definitely be considered one of my favorite experiences. Truly an opportunity to experience just a little of the exotic lifestyle of the nomadic peoples of the Thar Desert. Jaisalmer is a destination so worth the effort to reach!
This article is written by or on behalf of an outsourced columnist and does not necessarily reflect the views of Castanet.
