A leaking hot water tank is not good news. While a small leak may seem somewhat of a nuisance, it can quickly turn into a big problem.
Hot water tanks often have large storage capacities. Most tanks I inspect are in the 40 gallon range, which is a lot of water. It isn’t so much about the volume of water in the tank, but that the tank is under pressure. When homeowners experience a plumbing leak on the supply side of the plumbing system, the leak usually continues until someone discovers it. The longer the tank leaks the higher the probability of major damage. In extreme cases a complete failure of the tank can occur causing a significant flood. Repair bills are sure to follow and damage to personal property a reality.
Be careful to check out the other mechanical components in the hot water tank area. There can be other sources of water that cause puddles near tanks. Other sources may be plumbing waste lines, appliances near the tank or condensation which can accumulate and drip to the floor.
A water heater leak does not diminish or go away with time. Tank leaks usually accelerate so it’s best to move quickly to fix the problem. Your first move is to shut the power and water supply off to your heater off and call a professional plumber.
For more information on hot water tank leaks click here.
To read last week's article, Carpenter Ants, click here.
In this case of this home, Camponotus vicinus have made themselves at home. The vicinus species have a black-red-black body. The other kind of carpenter ant, Camponotus modoc, is easily identifiable as a large black ant. Both species vary in size, ranging in size from 4 mm to 12 mm long, their relatively large size makes them easy to spot. In our area, damage to buildings caused by carpenter ants is considered more serious than that caused by termites.
Corrective measures: One of the best things that you can do to dissuade these wood destroying organisms is to not invite them to your home. They definitely enjoy moist wood so make sure your roof is in good repair and make sure that your irrigation system is directed away from your structure. Remove any and all decaying wood from the yard. Store firewood off the ground and far from the home and should you have some delivered, inspect it prior to unloading for infestation. Carpenter ants can be imported onto a property by delivery of organic landscape material from an infested site elsewhere or from firewood delivered from another area.
Get your vegetation well away from your house. In my experience, carpenter ants tend to give preference to such food sources as sugars produced from evergreen trees and shrubs, berry vines and bushes, ivy and other climbing and crawling ground covers.
Carpenter ants can infest a structure by a singular fertile reproductive or by way of an entire colony. When a single reproductive establishes a colony it can take up to six years for the colony to mature. A parent or satellite colony cab move from one location to another in a matter of hours.
Carpenter ants are the most visible—and perhaps the most intimidating—of the wood destroying pests encountered in the Okanagan.
Carpenter ants, as their common name suggests, are wood workers and classified as a wood destroying insect. Unlike their termite counterparts, Carpenter ants do not eat wood, but rather they bore or mine wood out to create galleries to nest in order to expand their colony. They excavate galleries in wood or other materials by chewing but they discard the debris (called frass) outside the nest. Frass often looks very similar to saw dust. Frass may sometimes be found under a hole or other opening but is often discarded inside wall voids.
In a house, Carpenter ants can inflict serious damage to structural framing components. Damp conditions inside of the walls of a building can attract Carpenter ants. Their primary interest in locating within a structure is to use it as a nesting site. They prefer wood, but it’s interesting to note that they don’t seem to care what kind of building material they nest in as long as it is in close proximity to a food and a moisture source. Sometimes their nests can be found in insulation materials rather than wood. The danger is that the inevitable expansion of the nest will lead them to move into adjacent wood components.
I can tell you from experience that once Carpenter ants have infested a structure, remediation is best left to the pest control professional. I see ant traps and home remedies frequently. This type of action can simply cause the colony to relocate, and in some cases make extermination more difficult. Colonies embedded in insulation, wood framing, or flat roofs lacking attic access can be particularly difficult to eradicate.
Sure vegetation increases a home’s appeal, but it might add other things too. Vegetation growing on the house attracts insects to the house and they will make a home if they can, and get inside.
Climbing plants growing on the walls will attach themselves to the siding material and, if given opportunity, will actually get in and grow inside the walls, soffits and facia. I have seen vines growing into wood shake roofs on occasion.
Most climbing plants have strong tendrils with sticky roots that attach themselves to the surface of your home. The result is they are hard to remove and their residue is evident and very difficult to eradicate.
Vegetation and their roots hold moisture against the house and foundation walls. Trees can be especially damaging. They can hold moisture against houses. Aggressive roots can push on and even crack foundation walls.
The ivy on this house is growing under the vinyl siding, between the vinyl siding and the synthetic stucco on the chimney, and is holding moisture against that synthetic stucco.
My recommendation: plant trees well away from the home. Shrubs at full growth should end up being at least 3 feet away from the home. If you must have smaller plants, consider placing them in large pots rather than flower beds. If you must have a climbing plant, build it a trellis.
Read more About the House - Hugh Cairns articles
- Hugh Cairns: Inspection friends Jul 7
- Hugh Cairns: bleach vs mould Jun 30
- Hugh Cairns: Grow ops cause grief May 12
- Hugh Cairns: Beat the heat May 5
- Vermiculite insulation, now what? Apr 28
- Hugh Cairns: At the altar Apr 14
- Hugh Cairns: Pool openings Apr 7
- Hugh Cairns: Make up air vents Mar 31
- Hugh Cairns: Termite time Mar 24
- Prepare for the inspection of your home Mar 17
- Hot tub maintenance saves money Mar 3
- Hugh Cairns: Pet urine in heat ducts Feb 17
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