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53236
Mar 12, 2010 / 5:00 am
Basically, Super Tuscans are an unofficial category of wines produced in Tuscany, which are not recognized within the Italian wine classification system. The name was originally made-up to describe a class of red wines that originated in Chianti during the 1970s and early-1980s which describes any Tuscan red wine that does not adhere to traditional blending laws for the region. Wine producers at the time used 100% Sangiovese, Chianti’s most prominent red grape, others blended Sangiovese with non-traditional red grapes, such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc and some went so far even as to use only non-traditional red grapes. It was a radical idea at the time to produce a red wine that did not contained any white grapes, which the law required back then.
By experimenting with non-traditional grapes, by employing new wine making techniques, such as small-barrel aging (up to that time Chianti had always been aged in large casks), the quality of Chianti was greatly enhanced. However, this experiment caused a problem. Even though these revamped Chiantis were excellent, they could not under strict Italian wine, be called Chianti. So they were labelled Vino da Tavola, “Table Wine”, a designation given to low-end wines of questionable origin.
The first Super Tuscan was Sassicaia. It was the first wine from Tuscany to be produced entirely from the Bordeaux varietals of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It originated with the Marchesi Mario Incisa Della Rochetta, who became acquainted with Bordeaux wines during the ‘40’s. He believed that wines of the same quality could be produced in Tuscany using Bordeaux grapes and methods, in particular in the area of Bolgheri at his estate Tenuta San Guido.
So, in 1944 he planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc vines obtained from Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, at San Guido. He used small French-oak barrels instead of the traditional large chestnut vats that were commonly used. Those early vintages were kept only for private consumption, but in 1968 the first vintage was commercially available to the world as the first Super Tuscan.
In the 1970s, Piero Antinori, a nephew of Mario Incisa della Rocchetta who had been a consultant at Tenuta San Guido since the historic 1968 vintage, was inspired by the success of Sassicaia. He decided to make a richer wine by eliminating the white grapes from the Chianti blend, adding instead Bordeaux varietals (namely, cabernet sauvignon and merlot) to Sangiovese. The result was a wine he named Tignanello.
Another relative of Marchesi Mario Incisa della Rochetta, Marchesi Lodovico Antinori, who is Piero’s cousin, created Ornellaia in Bolgheri. He had inherited the adjoining property to Tenuta San Guido and in the early 1980’s, inspired by the advancements of the Napa Valley, brought in renowned California viticulturalist, Andre Tchelistcheff to give advice on the creation of Ornellaia.
Encouraged by the success of these wines, other winemakers started experimenting with blends of their own. Many were simply 100% Sangiovese, which could not be labelled Chianti Classico at the time. Legislation has since caught up with the producers and Chianti Classico may now be produced solely from Sangiovese.
Because these wines did not conform to strict DOCG classifications, in 1992 the creation of the Indicazione Geografica Tipica category or IGT specifically addressed the need of consumers to be able to identify a non-traditional wine of guaranteed quality. In addition, the laws governing Chianti were changed. White grapes were no longer required to be part of the blend, but the wines must have a minimum of 80% Sangiovese (or 100%, if the producer so desired) and could include up to 20% non-traditional red varietals (such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot or Syrah). This meant that many of the original Super Tuscans could now call themselves Chianti if they wished although most choose not to do so, preferring instead to retain a singular identity such as Sassicaia or Tignanello
Today Sassicaia and Ornellaia are labelled as DOC wines from the Bolgheri region, which they helped define. DOC stands for Denominazione di Origine Controllata, meaning the wine is from a region that has been defined by the Italian Wine governing body. Tignanello is another story it is today labelled as IGT or Indicazione Geografica Tipica.
Wine News:
Tonight marks the 7th Annual International Wine Exhibition at the Coast Capri Hotel. This is a fantastic opportunity to try a broad range of import wines, right in our own backyard. All the proceeds from the event will be donated to the Rotary Club of Kelowna. Contact the Coast Capri Hotel at 860-6060 for tickets ($45.00 per person including tax) and info.
Weekend Super-Tuscan Picks:
The 2006 Antinori Guado al Tasso “IL Bruciato” ($39 PWS) is the second label for the Antinori’s regular Guado al Tasso, which usually sells for $94+ so at $39 this wine is a bargain. And what a delicious wine it is. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 20% Syrah, the wine has an impressive, concentrated ruby red colour, aromas of cassis, black raspberry, Damson plum, black cherry with hints of mushroom, tobacco, tar, smoke, cedar, vanilla and pepper. Multi-dimensional in every sense of the word, the flavours mirror the aromas with the same intensity. The finish is long and complex with crisp acidity and firm tannins. This could do with a few more years of aging to settle down and would cellar until 2020.
The 2005 Villa Antinori Toscana IGT ($30) is a blend of 55% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 5% Syrah. In 2002, the fruit from Antinori's "Super-Tuscan" vineyard Tignanello, which was not produced that year, was used to produce this IGT. By all rights a Super Tuscan, this is an intense wine displaying a brilliant ruby red colour with luscious black fruit aromas and flavours of black raspberry, cassis with hints of smoke, licorice and tobacco leaf blending with the toasty, chocolate and vanilla characteristics. A rich, complex, well-structured wine with soft acidity and smooth, medium tannins.
One of the top Italian wines in the world, Ornellaia needs little introduction. Since the very first vintage in 1985, this estate has been pushing the boundaries of top quality Tuscan wine from the tiny appellation of Bolgheri. According to the Wine Advocate, the 2006 Ornellaia ($215 PWS) “...flows from the glass in a profound expression of ripe, dark fruit. With time in the glass layers of minerals, cassis, tar, sweet herbs and French oak emerge, adding further complexity. This harmonious Ornellaia combines the richness of the vintage with superb freshness and awesome balance. Today the wine's sheer density almost manages to hide the tannins, but they are there, and the wine will ultimately benefit from a few years in the cellar. The 2006 Ornellaia is one of the highlights of this sensational Tuscan vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.” Score: 97/100
The 2005 Ruffino Modus ($43 PWS) is a blend of 50% Sangiovese, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Merlot. This wine is hedonistic with its deliciously, buttery black fruit, vanilla, caramel, chocolate, floral component. The palate was soft and juicy with velvety acidity, firm tannins and a great, spicy finish.
I just found this wine last week and it really surprised me. The 2006 Cecchi Chianti Classico ($25 PWS) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and the remaining 10% are Canaiolo and Colorino Toscano. Canaiolo is known for its fruitiness and is used to soften Sangiovese. Colorino is known for its deep, dark colour and structure from the phenolic compounds in the grape's thick skin without having any overpowering aromatics. Look for classic Italian aromas of black plum, black cherry, raspberry, cedar, tobacco, licorice, cocoa, smoke, mushroom, saddle leather, black olive and vanilla. The flavours are absolutely delicious with an abundance of black and red fruits, licorice, smoked meat, cocoa, roasted coffee and dried herbs. This definitely goes best with food, preferable Italian or could be cellared for another 5 years. Probably one of the best value Chianti Classico’s on the market.
Tuscany is not the only area that is blending non-traditional Italian grapes. Just to the south in Umbria, the 2007 Falesco Vitiano ($25 PWS) is a blend of equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet, and Sangiovese grapes, fermented in stainless steel tanks and aged in French oak barrels for 3 months before being bottled. Consistently one of the finest values in the marketplace, Vitiano has a deep ruby colour with aromas of dried roses, strawberries, cherries, black currants, and cedar-spice box. Showing great intensity, loads of fruit, medium body and an elegant, clean finish, it is a character-filled Italian red to consume over the next 1-2 years.
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53090
Mar 5, 2010 / 5:00 am
In order to get the most enjoyment out of wine, not only is decanting de rigueur, so is choosing the proper wine glasses. There are many types and styles on the market, from the somewhat expensive hand-blown, lead crystal to the old saucier shaped champagne glass. Choosing a good set of glassware is one of the things new wine lovers learn to appreciate early in their education. However, it is not necessary to take out a bank loan just to buy glasses or stemware as long as a few simple rules are followed.
When choosing wine glasses, pay attention to the bowl of the glass. This is where the wine will rest and to be able to properly judge the wine, the glass should be transparent not tinted and without any design on them so that the true colour of the wine shows. The colour can tell you quite a bit from the type of grapes used and/or about the age of the wine. Beautifully cut crystal may look nice on the table but I personally feel that they are completely inappropriate for the appreciation of wine. These types of glasses should be reserved as water glasses.
In stemware, size really does matter. A proper glass should be of sufficient size to allow a fair measure of wine to be poured so that half of the glass is empty to allow the wine to be swirled without spilling over. This swirling releases aromas and flavours, which is very important to the development of the wine. A glass of ten to fourteen ounces works very well.
The International Organization for Standardization or ISO has recognized a particular style of glass that has become the benchmark for international wine judging’s and competitions and is extremely suitable for everyday home use. The type of glass is the standard tulip shape with a lead content of about 9%. The size should be about 6 inches tall with a two inch stem, a four inch bowl, about two and a half inches at its widest diameter and two inches at the rim. This shape allows the wines aroma to be focused towards the nose and prevents it from escaping into the atmosphere.
In days gone past, the traditional Champagne glass was the saucer-type glass, patterned some say, after a pair of Marie Antoinette’s attributes. While this provides for a nice little bit of wine trivia, it does absolutely nothing for the wine. The classic flute glass, which is tall and narrow, prolongs the chill and bubbles of the wine much better. A standard tulip shaped glass will suffice in a pinch.
No matter which type of glass you use, cleaning them is very important. If you wash them by hand, make sure they are done separately from other dishes and use the hottest water possible with very little detergent. Rinse the glasses thoroughly. Any residual soap will affect the next glass of wine. If using a dishwasher, again wash them separately and use no detergent. The heat of the water will clean and sterilize them. Remove any water spots with a soft lint or chamois cloth before storing.
Some wine enthusiasts agree that different types of wine demand different styles of glasses. This has led to the development of glasses for say, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Brunello and so on. Riedel is the name most synonymous with these glasses and while several may say its great marketing, there is truth in that wines benefit by using a specific glass. While Riedel‘s glasses can be as expensive as a great bottle of Champagne, there are some value-orientated ones available. There also other producers of this type of glassware so check them out also. Whether you need to have a glass for every wine that is produced may be over-kill but to each their own.
In Vina Veritas
Weekend Wine Picks:
One of the best Pinot Noirs in BC, the 2006 Kettle Valley Reserve Pinot Noir ($43 PWS) shows what this variety is all about. Fragrant aromas of raspberry, cherry, plums, creamy vanilla- scented toasty oak with freshly picked mushrooms, roast game and wood smoke, mixed with cherries, tamarillo, dark chocolate and spice. The texture on the palate is classic Pinot Noir with silky smooth fruit character, lush acidity and firm tannins. It has that refined elegance that characterizes many of the best Pinot’s grown around the world. Only 284 cases produced.
The 2006 Sumac Ridge ‘Black Sage Vineyard’ Cabernet Franc ($25 PWS) is full of ripe black fruit aromas and flavours with none of the stemmy, greenness sometimes associated with Cabernet Franc. Look for rich black plum, blackberry, cassis with licorice, cocoa, vanilla, mint and dried herbs. Smoky toasted oak, cigar tobacco, cedar, vanilla, pepper, roasted coffee and a full, intense, spicy, long finish.
The 2008 Andeluna Wine Maker Selection Malbec ($25 PWS) is an opulent dark purple-red colour, this wine is full of ripe red currants, raspberries, chocolate, interesting floral notes on the aroma. Palate fresh and vibrant, filling the mouth with fresh berry fruit flavours, with nice weight in the middle, and sweet long finish.
The new vintage of Kettle Valley’s Malbec has been released and it is fantastic. The 2007 Kettle Valley Malbec ($43 PWS) boasts copious amounts of dark plum, cassis, blackberry, black cherry, with rich vanilla, chocolate, roasted portabella mushrooms, and tobacco leaf. The palate is richly textured with ripe black fruit flavours, roasted red pepper, leather, tobacco leaf, chocolate pudding, vanilla, and spicy pepper. A multi-complex wine in the ninth degree. Outstanding!!
The 2008 Gehringer Brothers Sauvignon Blanc ($18.90 PWS) shows intense varietal characteristics of rich passion fruit, grapefruit, kiwi, melon, white peach along with a hint of fresh cut green grass. The rich palate from the extended skin contact prior to fermentation gives the wine a mouth coating texture with fresh acidity on the long finish. A classic food pairing with this would be a goat cheese stuffed chicken breast with a mushroom sauce, steamed shellfish and grilled vegetables or risottos.
A great tasting wine at a fantastic price, the 2004 Bodegas Castano Pozuelo ($19 PWS…reduced by $6.00) boasts a deep, rich opaque purple colour, warm, delicious well balanced aromas of black raspberry, cassis, black plum, vanilla, anise, a hint of prune, smoke and saddle leather. The palate is rich, medium to full bodied, a velvety texture with loads of black fruit flavour accompanied by spice, licorice and vanilla. Absolutely delicious finish, the acidity is smooth with very firm tannins for a six year old Spanish red.
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52952
Feb 26, 2010 / 5:00 am
Bordeaux is a magical name. Of all the wine regions in the world, it is without a doubt the most famous. It is a city, a region and a source of fine wines all at the same time and also an influential, incontestable brand. A millionaire chateau owner in Margaux and a tiny debt-ridden winemaker from another part of the area can both boast, “The wine I produce is Bordeaux.”
Among the wine cognoscenti, Bordeaux has the reputation for producing the most age-worthy wines on the planet. Wine cellars around the world are filled with different chateaus of the region and certain vintages have been known to age for decades, if not centuries.
Situated in the southwest corner of France on the banks of the Garonne River, the area takes its name from the largest city in the region. It is a large district with around 250,000 acres under vine. Compare this to BC with just less than 10,000 acres. Although there are perhaps one hundred producers who have achieved worldwide fame, there are about 20,000 producers making wine in Bordeaux and approximately 850 million bottles are produced each year.
The Bordelais have been at it for over 2000 years, when the Romans brought viticulture and wine making to the ancient Gaullic tribes around 56 BC. Called Burdigala after an ancient Celtic tribe, the Bituriges Vivisci, the Romans were quite happy to leave the Bituriges alone. However, any wine that was drunk was shipped from Rome, which the Bituriges Vivisci paid dearly for. So, the wealthy and notable of the Bituriges Vivisci decided to plant vineyards. The prevailing theory is that the first vine cuttings that were brought to Bordeaux originated in the Cantabrian region of north-western Spain.
The history of Bordeaux is one that is woven through the tapestries of time. There have been so many political influences in the region over the past millennia that space would require a small book to chronicle everything. From the marriage of Eleanor of Aquitaine to Henry Plantagenet (Henry II) in 1152 up to the present day, the landscape of Bordeaux is ever-changing. Possibly at a later date, a treatise on the history of Bordeaux might be in order.
As with most wine regions, the selection of grape varieties is crucial to its success. However, unlike other wine regions that state the grape variety on their labels, the Bordelais do not, preferring instead for the consumer to understand what grapes are used. Here in North America, the types of grapes used would be called Meritage, a combination of Merit and Heritage, giving homage to the mix of grapes used in Bordeaux. These can be an amalgamation of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec and Petit Verdot.
Deciding on where grapes grow best will determine what varieties are planted. As with BC, only certain varieties will mature properly in specific areas. There are basically two specific regions in Bordeaux, the Right Bank and Left Bank. These areas are related to the geography of the region and are divided by the Garonne and Dordogne rivers the “right bank” is situated on the right bank of Dordogne and the “left bank”, situated on the left bank of Garonne.
The left bank is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon and is where the top five wines of Bordeaux are produced Château Lafite Rothschild in Pauillac, Château Margaux in the Margaux, Château Latour in Pauillac, Chateau Haut-Brion in Péssac-Legonan and Chateau Mouton Rothschild in Pauillac (promoted from second to first growth in 1973). These wines were classified or given their status in 1855 by the Emperor Napoleon III for the Exposition Universelle de Paris or World’s Fair (much like our Expo ’86).
Back in1855, a group of Bordeaux wine brokers created a five-class ranking of 60 châteaux in the Médoc, north of Bordeaux (and one from Graves, Haut-Brion), that has determined how much those châteaux could charge for their wines, and, more important, how much the public was willing to pay. This has not changed very much in over 150 years (talk about being mired in tradition.
The right bank is dominated by Merlot and was not classified in 1855 but in 1955.
In some ways, the wines of Bordeaux are a victim of its own success. While most of the famous wines like Margaux, Latour, Haut-Brion, Lafite-Rothschild, and Mouton are selling for over $1,000 a bottle, most consumers are amazed when they find Bordeaux priced at $20 or $30 a bottle, which is drinkable. Neophytes, be not concerned there are lots of great tasting wines from Bordeaux at really good prices. The most famous wines are invariably excellent, but prices reflect status and availability as much as quality. These buyers are often wealthy collectors who either have no intention of drinking them for decades, speculators who plan to sell them later for a profit or just want them to impress their friends. That is one advantage to buying top end Bordeaux. They appreciate incredibly.
Weekend Wine Picks:
Here in BC, Bordeaux-style wines are abundant and are usually labelled as Meritage.
Produced in the Graves region of Bordeaux from Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Malbec, the 2005 Château Roquetaillade La Grange ($30 PWS) is tasty Bordeaux at a fantastic price from one of the best vintages. Displaying a deep, rich colour, it offers aromas of spicy blackberry, raspberry, cassis, menthol, forest floor, leather and spice. The palate is medium-bodied and spicy with black fruit, tobacco, leather, roasted coffee, soft acidity and firm tannins that do not dominate allowing the juicy black fruit to come through on the mid palate and the finish.
One of my favourite red Meritage blends is the 2006 Kettle Valley ‘Old Main Red’ ($43 PWS). A classic left bank, Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot, with a small amount of Petit Verdot and Malbec, this is a stunning display of rich, juicy blackberry, plum, and cassis fruit followed by spicy licorice, vanilla, and toast. The palate is superb with its black fruit character, spicy French oak (20 months), soft acidity, and a good grip of tannin. Still in its infancy, this will age for another decade at least. Only 980 cases produced.
N.B. The 2003 Old Main Red is starting to drink just beautifully now!!
An absolutely delicious drop of wine, the 2007 Hester Creek Cabernet Merlot ($20 PWS) is a yummy surprise. Actually a blend of the two Cabernet grapes along with Merlot, if this wine was labelled as Meritage the price would be double. This wine is full of fresh raspberries, black cherries, toast, chocolate, vanilla, tobacco leaf with dried herbs and baked earth. Spicy black fruit on the palate with soft acidity and firm tannins, this is an easy drinking red but also has the stuffing to age for 6-12 months.
The 2007 Lake Breeze Meritage ($23 PWS) is a fabulous wine displaying ripe aromas of cherry, black berry and raspberry with hints of roasted tomato, black olive, mocha, leather, and Asian spice. Soft and round on the palate, the texture is fairly elegant with its smoke, tobacco leaf and cranberry flavours. A fabulous price for a Meritage.
This wine has evolved so much over the past eight months that the 2007 SYL Ping ($34 PWS) has now become one of our favourite wines. Goes to show you what a little time in the bottle will do for a wine. We North Americans tend to drink our wines too young. A Bordeaux-style blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc, look for layers of rich black and red fruit aromas such as blackberries, cassis, raspberries and cherries with hints of licorice, fennel, menthol and vanilla-scented oak. The palate is loaded with luscious black cherry jam flavours, licorice, creamy chocolate pudding, and sweet tobacco leaf. Deliciously ripe, long with soft acidity, and very firm tannins although not aggressive with a finish somewhat reminiscent of mocha-chocolate pudding.
The 2007 Mission Hill Five Vineyards Cabernet-Merlot ($17 PWS) is a delicious surprise. A blend of 45% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc, the 2007 continues as one of the top-selling VQA reds in BC. Sourced from selected vineyards, it is full of fresh raspberries, black cherries, toast, chocolate pudding and vanilla. A classic mid-week wine, the palate is delicious with its soft raspberry, cherry-like aromas with hints of dried herbs, pepper, chocolate and vanilla. A soft easy drinking style of wine, this is a perfect wine for everyday enjoyment when friends come over.
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52810
Feb 19, 2010 / 5:00 am
Of all the wine regions of France or for that matter, the world, Châteauneuf-du-Pape is perhaps one the most famous and historic, all at the same time. The name roughly translates to "New House of the Pope" and the history of this region and its wine is firmly entwined with papal history. Even the bottles are embossed with the Papal coat of arms.
Located between Avignon and Orange in the southern Rhône, the area has been under vine cultivation since the second century B.C., before Roman occupation. By the first century A.D., grape growing had been widely developed by the Romans, mainly to supply their army with wine.
The name was first recorded in 1157 and by the 13th century, the village of Châteauneuf, with its 1000 inhabitants, had begun to grow prosperous and had developed a flourishing vineyard of approximately 700 acres.
In 1308, Pope Clément V planted additional vine stock. Clement was already an accomplished grape grower having planted his own vineyard in Bordeaux known as Château Pape-Clement, when he was Bishop of Bordeaux and he would regularly travel to village of Châteauneuf to inspect his vines. Since Clement was French and because of political upheaval in the papacy, he decided it would be better to remain in France and so moved the Papacy to Avignon where it remained until 1378.
Clements successor, Pope John XXII, regularly supplied wine from Châteauneuf to the Papal residence. He was without a doubt the prelate who was most instrumental in developing the reputation of Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. He was also responsible for building the papal summer residence in the small village of Châteauneuf. (The castle was partial destroyed during the Second World War due to bombing but the remains of it still stand today). Pope John cultivated the 25 acres that surrounded the castle but found he needed much more wine for his papal feasting where one feast included 55 sheep, 690 chickens, 580 partridges, 270 rabbits, 8 pigs, 4 wild boar, 40 plovers, 37 ducks and 50 pigeons. As a result, he contracted for an annual delivery of 1,550 litres from the nearby village of Bédarrides, which is part of the Châteauneuf du Pape appellation today.
Not much is known of the grapes that were planted during this time but in 1808 vines were planted from “old plants” of local origin along with new plants from Spain. Since the growers wanted to enhance their wines and improve quality, they tried many new grape varieties. Towards the end of the 1800’s, one man, Joseph Ducos, planted on his estate ten carefully selected grape varieties. These were to become the basis of Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Those grapes are:
Grenache and Cinsault for sweetness, warmth and mellowness.
Mourvèdre, Syrah, Muscardin and Camarèse (aka Vaccarèse) for robustness, maturity, colour and a thirst-quenching taste.
Counoise and Picpoul for vinosity, charm and a special bouquet.
Clairette and Bourboulenc for finesse, fire and brilliance.
Today, Chateauneuf-du-Pape may contain up to thirteen varieties but for the most part, only three or four are used, these being Grenache, Syrah Mourvèdre and sometimes Cinsault. What’s more, in recent years Australia has started using these grapes in blending their wines, they just cannot call it Chateauneuf-du-Pape. There it is called GSM after the grapes employed.
Wine and Food News:
First off, I usually do not review restaurants as most are often quite generic and pedestrian. However, I did have the chance to have lunch at the Wild Apple Grill at Manteo’s Resort here in Kelowna. I have not dined there in awhile so I was pleased to discover that they have a new Executive Chef, Bernard Casavant who is a member of BC Restaurants Hall of Fame. Chef Bernard has the distinction of being the first West Coast born and trained chef to represent Canada in the Bocuse d’Or Competition, an event that is often referred to as the culinary equivalent of the Olympic Games. He has also developed a solid reputation in the restaurant industry, earning the respect and admiration of his peers as the Executive Chef at Chateau Whistler Resort and Executive Chef at the Sonora Room Restaurant at Burrowing Owl Estate Winery.
As with most Executive Chefs, they all have their ‘Signature’ dishes and Chef Bernard is no exception. My companions had his Roasted Carrot and Brie Soup and it is fantastic. I am going to try the Duck Confit next time and I’m sure I will not be disappointed.
Next time you are looking for a place to dine, re-visit the Wild Apple Restaurant and Lounge at the Manteo Resort. Call 250-860-4488 for reservations.
Weekend Wine Picks:
Château Beaucastel is by anyone's measure one of the world’s most prestigious wine estates and is certainly one of, if not THE top producer in the Southern Rhone valley, known for its rich history, dedication to quality, and for the longevity and personality of its wines. The 1990 Chateau Beaucastel ($295 PWS) is traditionally-styled with its sweet, lush, black raspberry fruit, new saddle leather, raspberries, licorice, fruitcake, smoked game, tobacco leaf, cigar box and Provencal herbs. Full-bodied and powerful with soft acidity and firm yet supple tannins, this wine will last another 10-15 years.
The 2007 d’Arenberg Stump Jump GSM ($18 PWS) is the Australian version of Châteauneuf-du-Pape with its huge aroma of blackberry and mulberry fruit, plum, dark cherry fruits, Asian spice and hints of vanillin that carries right through onto the palate. A blend of 50% Grenache, 29% Shiraz and 21% Mourvèdre, the name relates to the old Stump Jump plough named for its ability to ride over stumps and gnarled “mallee” Eucalyptus roots and snags, saving valuable time and resources by not stopping the draught horse. The palate is savoury and bone-dry, balanced with lovely sweet black fruit and subtle tannins and acidity that already make the wine a pleasure to drink now or cellar well for 2-3 years. Try this with char-grilled meat or paired with pâté, game, venison and grilled sausages.
A classic Chateauneuf-du-Pape style blend of Grenache, Syrah and Carignan, the 2008 Domaine de L’Ameillaud Vin des Pays Vaucluse ($17 PWS) is, in one word, sensational. Sourced from 30-year-old vines from the Vaucluse region of Provence, the strong, cherry-jam aroma of Grenache dominates with southern French flavours of cherries and plums, highlighted by cassis, spice and white pepper. A round wine that starts with fresh fruit and finishes dry and smoky. Look for soft acidity and firm, not heavy, tannins on the finish. This wine is ready to drink now and goes with grilled/roasted meat, vegetables and pasta.
A classic Rhone blend of 75% Grenache & 25% Syrah, the 2008 Louis Bernard Côtes du Rhône-Villages ($19 PWS) is a huge wine for the price. In order to obtain the high-quality grapes needed to make exceptional wines, Louis Bernard holds long-term contracts with about fifteen growers. Loaded with fragrant aromas of sweet raspberry, kirsch, strawberries, spice box, leather and smoke, the palate is well structured with its rich flavours of black and red fruits, spice, garrigue, soft acidity and firm tannins. This is not a fruit bomb but an elegant, refined wine. Fantastic to enjoy now for the sheer pleasure of it but will reward with 2-3 years of cellaring.
The 2007 La Vielle Ferme Côtes du Ventoux Rouge ($16.90), a blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan, is full of cassis/cherry/blackberry fruit aromas with hints of pepper, licorice, chocolate and baked earth. Soft, round and supple on the palate with an elegant scent of rose petals, there is a refreshing burst of red and black fruit on the juicy/fleshy long finish. A great discovery for its flavour and character, a well-balanced wine at this price point, this wine is ready to enjoy now.
A delicious example of a white Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the 2008 Twisted Tree Roussanne-Marsanne ($25.90) is a brilliant pale yellow colour with hints of green, delicate on the nose with its aromatic aromas of fresh peaches, apricots and nectarines with a splash of lemon-lime, orange marmalade and white flowers. Crisp, clean and dry with flavours of nectarine, ripe pear, peach, almonds and minerals. Excellent with pan-seared basa with mango salsa.