There is a lot going on in the international wine industry. As consumers, we may not realize what happens in the background of the international wine industry, as we just tend to look at a bottle of wine for what it is. Do we really care about what happens behind the scenes?

However, there is a battle brewing amongst wine-producing countries. Over the past decade, the plantings of grapes and the marketing of wines have exploded in areas such as Australia, California, New Zealand, Chile and Argentina. In response to this, the European Union and private investors have spent heavily in upgrading the vineyards of Spain, France and southern Italy. It is the battle of the Old World versus the New World!

In 1996, the Australian industry set itself an objective to be the world’s leading exporter of wine with a target of annual sales of $4.5 billion by 2025. That target was surpassed in 2005, twenty years earlier than anticipated. One of the ways this was accomplished was to embark on a massive planting of grapes.

However, because of this enormous over-planting a decade ago, there is now a glut of well-made Australian wine on the market. Combine this with the fact that the world is just not drinking enough wine and the problem is exacerbated. And this is not just Australia’s problem.

A problem facing European wine producers is that aggressive marketing by some New World producers like Australia, as well as improved production techniques in other countries, have seen their sales increase by as much as 20 times. During this same period, exports from France dropped by 15 percent, but it still produced the same amount of wine. Add to that the French are drinking less (hard to believe, I know) and you end up with a surplus wine lake – equivalent to more than a billion bottles.

In 2006, world wine consumption rose slightly to 241 billion litres but production was 283 billion litres. This over-production or glut of wine has become so big that France distilled some of its higher end wines. In the past, France, Italy and Spain, the top three countries that produce over half of the world's wine, have turned excess low-quality wine into vinegar and ethanol but now about 100 million litres of Appellation d'Origine Controllée wine is being turned into crystal-clear ethanol to be added to gasoline.

The obvious winners from this oversupply are the consumers. We are seeing a plethora of wines on the market that offer incredible value in price and quality. Previously, these wines would have been mediocre at best but increased technology in the winemaking field has improved these wines tremendously and the large supply has driven the price down so that we, the consumer, are drinking better wines for less money. This is a buyers market and it is no time to be settling for the bulk crap. It is time to explore.

There is one thing that wine producers have to worry about though. If they go on raising the alcohol level we will fall off our stools before we can order a second bottle.

Weekend Wine Picks:

A great new find in the Spanish category, the 2006 Marques de Rojas ($10-$12 PWS & GLS) is from the tiny area of Almansa, on Spain’s southeast region. A soft juicy little red, this wine is made from 100% Garancha Tintorera, a unique clone of Garancha that has red juice instead of clear. A luscious wine displaying a dark cherry colour, lovely, grapey raspberry, blackberry and cassis fruit character with a sprinkle of leather, prune and black pepper. The texture on the palate is velvety soft, with succulent red and black fruit flavour, soft acidity and medium tannins. If there is only one wine you buy this week, make it this one. You will not be disappointed.

I first had this wine four or five years ago and it has not disappointed me yet. A blend of Riesling and Auxerrois, the 2006 Gehringer Desert Sun ($14.90 PWS) is full of delicate fruit aromas of clover honey, rose petal, red apple, grapefruit and pineapple with a hint of orange rind. Flavours of citrus, apples, pears and grapefruit with just a hint of lychee nut in the slightly off-dry finish. Finishes with crisp acidity to balance the hint of residual sugars. Perfect with summer picnics, fresh crab or grilled halibut, or spicy Chinese cuisine. Great value.

The 2004 Deakin Merlot ($11-$13…reduced by $3 PWS & GLS) offers exceptional value for the money with its ripe, almost sweet cherry, raspberry, blueberry and plum jam aromas. Hints of spicy clove, vanilla, chocolate and buttery oak round out the aromas. The palate is pure pleasure with lots of black and red fruit flavour, licorice, vanilla, chocolate, smoke and spice. The finish is soft and seductive with velvety acidity and firm tannins giving this wine the impression of being able to age another year. Superb Value!!

A new listing in the hot Argentina category, the 2007 Altivo Malbec ($11.90 PWS) is a tasty wine perfectly suited for the BBQ. Look for loads of ripe blackberry, black cherry, licorice, smoke, roasted meat, dried herbs and baked earth aromas. The flavour is all about juicy blackberry, cassis and plum fruit flavours, with soft acidity, smooth tannins and a wonderfully flavourful finish. Goes to show you why Argentina is the hottest wine country in BC. A very versatile partner fit for roasted chicken or grilled sausage.

The 2006 Estación Carmenere ($12.90 PWS) has an intense ruby colour with aromas of blackberry, cassis, black licorice, black cherry and chocolate liqueur. Flavours of blackberry, black currant, gobs of black licorice, BBQ-oak, and hints of cherry kirsch are on the palate with a ripe, pure mouth-filling texture that is absolutely delicious. The finish exhibits soft acidity, smooth tannins that velvety sensation on the finish. Enjoy with garlic-roasted lamb, spicy empanadas or fajitas or simply it on its own!

The top-selling South African red in BC, the 2007 Obikwa Merlot ($11.90 PWS) is an incredible value. A soft, supple red at a great price, the rich and ruby-violet colour frames the delicious ripe black cherry, blackberry, tobacco leaf and smoke with a tasty flavour of red and black fruit, licorice, chocolate and vanilla. Soft acidity and medium tannins round out the scrumptious finish. Stock up for the summer.

While most consumers may recognize the wine regions of Tuscany, Piedmont, Veneto and the wines produced there, Chianti, Barolo and Valpolicella, the areas of central and southern Italy are largely overlooked. From Lazio and Umbria to the island of Sicily, many of the wines from these areas stand up in comparison to other regions, Italian or otherwise.

However, they are not the most popular perhaps in part because most are produced from indigenous grapes, shunning the modern infatuation with "international" grapes such as Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet, preferring instead to produce wines in a more traditional style, reflecting their Italian heritage. In addition, while each of these areas may be using the same variety, the regions are so climate-specific that the wine produced will have their own distinctive characteristics.

Although many people may not recognize Lazio or Latium as it is also called, they will know its capital, Rome. Sometimes referred to the as the “Rodney Dangerfield” of wine regions, in that it gets no respect, Lazio is located directly south of Tuscany, in the central western part of Italy on the coast of the Tyrrhenian Sea. It devotes 300,000 acres to grapevines, ranking it 7th amongst the 20 Italian regions and is an area well known for the production of white wine, specifically Frascati, a crisp, dry white produced from Trebbiano, Greco and Malvasia. However, the reds that come from this region are superb, full of vitality and flavour.

One of Italy's smallest regions, Umbria lies in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour, Tuscany. Situated inland from Lazio and south of Tuscany, Umbria is a mostly mountainous and hilly region, well known for its remarkable white wine, Orvieto. The current winemaking in Umbria has been facing great changes in recent years with most producers in the region abandoning the practise of bulk wine production in favour of an improved quality.

Directly across from Lazio is the province of Abruzzo. In a nation of 20 different wine regions, Abruzzo offers wine drinkers a rare and refreshing simplicity. Here, winemakers offer consumer’s wines produced from Montepulciano, Sangiovese, and Trebbiano. Not to be confused with the town of the same name in Tuscany, Abruzzo’s Montepulciano grape is capable of producing wines of great distinction as it provides a wide variety of styles from light, refreshing reds and rosés to full bodied, robust wines of excellent character that have the potential for cellaring.

South of Abruzzo is the much-overlooked region of Molise. For a long time an extension of Abruzzo, Molise is one of the most unspoiled regions of Italy, about 90% hills and mountains. This hilly terrain and the sunny climate combine to create ideal conditions for the production of wine. The region has about 19,000 acres planted to grapevines, ranking it 18th amongst the 20 Italian regions and has, in the past decade, come into its own, producing great value wines with intensity and concentration with the ability to age.

Puglia or “Apulia” may be the best-known region in the South, gaining attention, in particular, for its fruity Primitivo, the Grandfather of California’s Zinfandel. However, Negroamaro is another variety that is raising eyebrows. These wines are dark and rich in colour, with powerful aromas of black cherry, anise, plum jam, hay and blackberry followed by hints of leather, earth, cinnamon and vanilla.

Sicily is the largest island in Mediterranean and if it were a nation, it would rank sixth in the world wine production! Sicily has more vineyards than any of the other Italian regions competing with Apulia for first place as the largest wine producer due to its rich soil and dry climate. However, it has suffered with the reputation of being a producer and supplier of bulk wine to the rest of Italy and Europe. Now there is attention being placed on growing the well-known international grape varieties such as Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah.

These regions are producing great wines that are typical of a warmer, sunnier region where the tendency is to be ripe and robust. Yet many share the Italian reputation of sturdy structure and zippy acidity that make them the perfect accompaniment with food. They are the perfect wines to enjoy with the backyard B-B-Q.

Weekend Wine Picks:

A steal of a deal, the 2001 Velletri Riserva ($18.50 GLS) from Lazio (Latium) is stunning. Produced from the native Cesanese (45%), Montepulciano (25%) and Merlot (30%), this is a fantastic wine chock full of characteristic aromas of sweet black cherries, black raspberries, figs, prunes, licorice, roasted meat, and baked earth with cedar and dried bay leaves. The palate is full and lush with flavours of creamy black cherry, raspberry-jam, chocolate pudding, leather, vanilla and spice. Serve with your favourite Italian meal, hopefully a big piece of something rich and flavourful. An undiscovered treasure, this is one of the best Italian reds on the market.

From the region of Molise, the 2002 Tor Del Colle Riserva ($15.90 PWS) is made from 100% Montepulciano. Look for aromas of rich black cherry, raspberries, strawberries, ripe plums, licorice, roasted game, chocolate, and cigar leaf and chocolate pudding. It is a full-bodied wine with ripe cherry fruit, a full-bodied palate, soft acidity and a supple tannic finish. Fantastic.

One of the driest wines I have tasted, the 2004 Antinori Campogrande Orvieto ($17.50 PWS) from the town of Orvieto in Umbria has everything you would want in a great tasting Italian white. Loads of fresh green apple, white peach, zingy citrus fruit, lime, pear, a bit of slate-minerality with a hint of nuttiness, the palate is crisp, clean with citrussy fruit and mouth-puckering acidity that begs for the correct food to tame it. A perfect wine to serve with pan-fried calamari with garlic aioli or even a Caesar salad.

From the east coast of Italy in Abruzzo, the 2006 Casal Thaulero Montepulciano D’Abruzzo ($12.90 PWS) is a dark ruby red colour with rich, spicy black cherry, raspberry, black plum, chocolate, and tobacco leaf followed by smoke, prune, licorice and graphite. The spicy oak flavour dominates on the palate but blows off to reveal tasty chocolate and raspberry flavours. The palate is velvety with soft acidity and ample but approachable tannins that hint at possible aging potential.

Produced in the southern end of Italy, on the ‘heel of the boot’, the 2006 Mezzomondo Negroamaro ($11.90 PWS & GLS) is a wine that over delivers for the price. This hot southern region used to produce high-alcohol wines with an over-ripe character of stewed prunes but modern winemaking methods have resulted in wines with good balance and intense flavours. This one is full of juicy black cherry and blackberry aromas with violets, roses, plum/raspberry, toasty oak and chocolate. Rich, soft and round with firm acidity and tannins, this is the quintessential Italian bargain wine. Smashing wine, especially with pasta or pizza.

The 2006 Montalto Nero D’Avola-Cabernet ($12.90 PWS) is a great valued red from Sicily. Full of ripe blackberry, black cherry, blueberry, and red plum jam-like aromas with subtle hints of leather, smoke, tobacco leaf, cocoa, and dried herbs. The palate is medium bodied with loads of juicy black fruit, herbs and spice followed by soft acidity and velvety yet firm tannins. An excellent wine for the price.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin

For Immediate Release
 
2008 Best of Varietal Wine Competition Results
Announced at the Okanagan Spring Wine Festival
 
The Okanagan Wine Festivals Society announced the results of the annual “Best of Varietal” at a special industry awards ceremony for the 2008 Best of Varietal Judging Competition sponsored by Metro Label, Richards Packaging and the Business Development Bank of Canada. A record 300 wines were entered into this year’s competition. The Best of Varietal Categories this year include: Chardonnay, Unoaked Chardonnay, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Sparkling, Pinot Noir, Open Table Red, Cabernet Franc, Open Table White, Red Meritage, Syrah/Shiraz, Sauvignon Blanc, White Meritage, Rose/Blush, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewürztraminer, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Late Harvest/Dessert. Riesling Icewine, Other Icewines and Fruit Wines.
 
The Best of Class of this year’s 2008 Best of Varietal Competition plus the finalists are:
                                 Winners
 
Chardonnay
Best of Class

Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Black Sage Vineyard Chardonnay
Finalists
See Ya Later Ranch 2006 Chardonnay
Nk' Mip Cellars 2006 Qwam Qwmt Chardonnay
Sandhill Wines 2006 Chardonnay
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Chardonnay
 
Unoaked Chardonnay
Best of Class
Calona Vineyards 2007 Artist Series Unoaked Chardonnay
Finalists
Blasted Church Vineyards 2007 Chardonnay Musque
Ganton and Larsen
Prospect Winery 2006 Townsend Jack Unoaked Chardonnay
Quinta Ferreira Estate Winery 2007 Chardonnay Unoaked
 
Riesling
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 God’s Mountain Riesling
Finalists
See Ya Later Ranch 2007 Riesling
Gehringer Brothers
Estate Winery 2007 Dry Riesling
Hillside Estate Winery 2007 Riesling
 
Pinot Blanc
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Mystic River Pinot Blanc
Finalists
Wild Goose Vineyards 2006 Mystic River Pinot Blanc
Nk 'Mip Cellars 2007 Pinot Blanc
Peller Estates Winery 2007 Heritage Series Pinot Blanc
 
Sparkling
Best of Class
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2004 Stellar's Jay Brut
Finalists
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery Sparkling Pinnacle
 
Pinot Noir
Best of Class
See Ya Later Ranch 2005 Pinot Noir
Finalists
Arrowleaf Cellars 2006 Pinot Noir
CedarCreek Estate Winery 2005 Platinum Reserve Pinot Noir
Mission Hill Family Estat 2006 Reserve Pinot Noir
 
Open Table Red
Best of Class
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors' Grand
Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz
Finalists
Golden Mile Cellars 2006 Zinfandel
Sandhill Wines 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon Syrah
Inniskillin Okanagan Winery 2005 Discovery Zinfandel
 
Cabernet Franc
Best of Class
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2005 Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Finalists
Hester Creek Estate Winery 2004 Reserve Cabernet Franc
 
Open Table White
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Autumn Gold
Finalists
Calona Vineyards 2007 Artist Series Sovereign Opal
Gray Monk Estate Winery 2007 Ehrenfelser
Gehringer Brothers
Estate Winery 2007 Schonburger Gewurztraminer
Blasted Church Vineyards 2007 Hatfield’s Fuse
 
Red Meritage Blends
Best of Class
Nk ‘Mip Cellars 2005 Qwam Qwmt Meritage
Finalists
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Meritage
See Ya Later Ranch 2005 Ping
Golden Mile Cellars 2005 Black Arts 5th Element Red
 
Syrah/Shiraz
Best of Class
Sandhill Wines 2006 Small Lots Syrah
Finalists
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Shiraz
Sandhill Wines 2006 Syrah
 
Blush/Rose
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Blanc de Noirs
Finalists
Sandhill Wines 2007 Rose
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2007 Proprietors’ Reserve
Cabernet Franc Rose
 
Sauvignon Blanc
Best of Class
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Reserve Sauvignon Blanc
Gehringer Brothers
Estate Winery 2007 Dry Rock Sauvignon Blanc
Finalists
Stag’s Hollow Winery 2007 Sauvignon Blanc
Ganton and Larsen
Prospect Winery 2006 Council’s Punch Bowl Sauvignon Blanc
 
White Meritage Blends/Varietals
Best of Class
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Black Sage Vineyard Meritage (white)
Finalists
Mission Hill Family Estate 2006 Select Lot Collection Sauvignon
Blanc Semillon
 
Cabernet Sauvignon
Best of Class
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Sunrock Cabernet Sauvignon
Finalists
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve
Cabernet Sauvignon
 
Gewurztraminer
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Gewurztraminer
Finalists
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Mystic River Gewurztraminer
See Ya Later Ranch 2007 Gewurztraminer
Desert Hills Estate Winery 2007 Gewurztraminer
Lake Breeze 2007 Gewurztraminer
 
Merlot
Best of Class
Jackson-Triggs Okanagan 2005 Proprietors’ Grand Reserve Merlot
Finalists
Nk ‘Mip Cellars 2005 Qwam Qwmt Merlot
Sandhill Wines 2006 Merlot
Hester Creek Estate Winery 2006 Merlot
Nk ‘Mip Cellars 2005 Merlot
 
Pinot Gris
Best of Class
Wild Goose Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris
Finalists
Ganton and Larsen
Prospect Winery 2007 Ogopogo's Lair Pinot Grigio
Therapy Vineyards 2007 Pinot Gris
See Ya Later Ranch 2006 Pinot Gris
Gray Monk Estate Winery 2006 Pinot Gris
Hester Creek Estate Winery 2007 Pinot Gris
 
Late Harvest and Desserts
Best of Class
Gehringer Brothers
Estate Winery 2006 Late Harvest Riesling
Finalists
Gray Monk Estate Winery 2007 Kerner Late Harvest
 
Other Icewine
Best of Class
See Ya Later Ranch 2006 Ehrenfelser Icewine
Finalists
Sumac Ridge Estate Winery 2006 Gewurztraminer Icewine
 
Riesling Icewine
Best of Class
Inniskillin Okanagan Winery 2006 Riesling Icewine
Finalists
Mission Hill Family Estate  2006 Reserve Riesling Icewine
 
Fruit Wine
Best of Class
Forbidden Fruit Winery 2007 Pomme Desiree Iced Apple
Finalists
Forbidden Fruit Winery 2007 Plumiscuous Plum Mistelle

This weekend, the 14th Annual Okanagan Spring Wine Festival kicks off, and because of the past success of the festival, this year it has expanded to a ten-day festival. Offering a tantalizing experience for anyone who loves fabulous wine accompanied by fine cuisine, what better way is there to announce the grape growing season than to hold a Festival during bud break. Traditional, this is also when the new wine vintages are released and this year it is the 2007 whites slowly arriving with the much-anticipated reds from the 2006 soon to follow.

While the 2005 vintage was quite small in terms of tons of grapes harvested with just over 14,000 tons grapes, the quality of the grapes were excellent due to smaller berries hence greater concentration of flavours. However, the 2006 vintage rebounded with a superb harvest, with over 20,000 tons of grapes harvested. This is an almost 50% increase and an almost 12 million litres of wine. “The quality and the quantity of the 2006 crop were fantastic,” says George Heiss, proprietor Gray Monk Estate Winery in the northern Okanagan. “I’ve been doing this since 1972 and I consider 2006 to be one of the better years. With our whites, the flavours are much more pronounced than both the ‘04 and ‘05 vintages,” Heiss added.

Nirmal Gidda, proprietor of the family owned Mount Boucherie Estate Winery, says, “The harvest has been A1. The sugar levels are high, the Ph and acid levels are where we want them, and the quality of the grapes is exceptional.”

Senka Tennant, winemaker for Black Hills Winery on the Black Sage Bench in the Southern Okanagan, added, “My personal view was this vintage was a red year. The late grapes such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc really benefited from the 2006 growing season.” Tennant added, “My feeling was 2006 was the best Cabernet year we’ve ever had.”

The highlight of the festival is the Consumer Tasting at the Laurel Packinghouse where you can explore some of these wines that are being produced throughout the valley. With over 35 wineries present and over 150 wines to sample, this is a great event for those trying wines for the first time as well as those who want to expand their wine knowledge. A word of caution, though. If you are thinking of attending any events during the ten days, buy your tickets early. Tastings and winemaker dinner events tend to sell-out rather quickly. Check out their website at www.owfs.com for a list of events and dinners.

While the arrival of the 2006 reds and 2007 whites is just around the corner, there is still good quantities of the ‘05 reds and ‘06 whites on store shelves. These wines have had a whole year in the bottle to fully develop the complex aromas and flavours that newly released wines have difficulty showing because of their young age. Now is the time to reap the rewards of that extra year in the bottle.

Voted as being the “Best Sparkling Wine of the Year” in Canada at the 2007 All Canadian Wine Championships, the Summerhill Cipes Brut NV ($22.90) is Riesling-based, which makes for a decidedly more interesting drop of wine. There’s loads of fresh green apple here with peach, pear, apricot, citrus and a hint of toast with a refreshing sprinkling of effervescence and a balance of natural acidity on the crisp finish. Tart, dry and crisp with toasty, nutty, floral, baked apple and candied citrus peel flavours and a long mouth-watering finish.

One of the tastiest and best value Pinot Noirs around is the 2006 Prospect Winery ‘Rock Wren’ Pinot Noir ($16.90). A typical Pinot Noir in every sense of the word with its silky smooth texture, rich black cherry/strawberry fruit, and creamy vanilla with hints of toast, dill and spice. Super-soft acidity and firm tannins on the finish will allow this wine to develop over the next 3 months, just perfect for summer entertaining.

The top Riesling in Canada award at the 2007 Canadian Wine Championships went to the 2006 Wild Goose Riesling ($19.90). Literally bursting with buckets of juicy tropical and orchard fruit, look for fresh aromas of ripe grapefruit, pineapple, white peach, red apple, and lime with hints of apricot, nectarine and honey. The super-zesty acidity is almost spritzy with its cleansing, mouth-watering vibrancy. A fantastic example of great BC Riesling. There is very little of this left at the retail level so grab yours while you can.

The 2006 Desert Hills Gamay ($21.90) is not your average Gamay. The gang at Desert Hills on the Black Sage Road have taken this grape to the next level, producing a lush, concentrated wine, with intense aromas of ripe black cherry, black raspberry, cassis, vanilla, cedar, sweet licorice with clove and black pepper spice. The texture on the palate is soft, round and supple with spicy clove, roasted meat, black cherry with coffee and chocolate flavours. One of the best Gamays in the valley.

Sourced from the spectacular Sandhill Family Estate vineyard in the southern Okanagan, the 2006 Sandhill Chardonnay ($21.90) is loaded with rich aromas of buttery Fuji apple, pear, pineapple, with spicy white pepper and a lush creamy palate. The texture is rich and creamy with lots of tropical and orchard fruit flavours with spicy white pepper, nutmeg, vanilla and honey. This is a rich style of Chardonnay, more in keeping with a Meursault. The finish is crisp and clean with an almost Chablis-like minerality to it.

One of the new winery’s to pop up on the radar is Quinta Ferreira. Their 2005 Syrah ($38.90) displays great colour, with rich blackberry, raspberry fruit, and smoke, and licorice and menthol aromas. The smooth acidity, firm tannins and long delicious flavour compliment the soft juicy black fruit flavour. This has had a full year to develop in the bottle and is showing immense complexity because of that. A tiny production of 500 cases means this will not be around much longer so grab your while you can.

The 2006 Desert Hills Pinot Gris ($23.90) is an amazing wine. Loaded with rich pineapple, grapefruit, mango, Fuji apple and citrus fruit aromas and flavours with hints of orange marmalade, butterscotch, creamy vanilla-scented oak. The palate is round and full-bodied with plenty of lush tropical and orchard fruit flavours with crisp acidity and a long juicy, mouth-watering finish. Absolutely one of the best Pinot Gris’ in BC.

In Vino Veritas
Jim Martin